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from the boat, where we obtained, at nearly our own price, eggs, milk, and bread; also a promise of more bread as soon as it should come from the oven. After dinner, and a good rest under a temporary covering from the fierce sun, we returned to the house at evening, when we were further delighted to notice, carefully placed in a shining tin beside the bread, some fine white cakes, which the good lady of the house kindly of fered to let us have, still desiring us to mention our own price. As a general rule, the farmers, and their wives or daughters, with whom we had to deal, were very much of the same style as the lady in the above instance, always very kind, and fully appreciating the fact of our being far away from home, and (as we were often told) from "maternal, care;" in fact, often so kind as to put them selves to inconvenience, and then absolutely refuse to receive any compensation. Sometimes they would have us take the last pound of butter or the last loaf of bread in the house, saying they would have churned or baked at such a time whether we took it or not. Of course, we met with others who were, I was about to confess, more than our match; but they generally, in one quarter of our crew at least, "caught a tartar." These we took great delight in annoying. One woman, for instance, wanted twenty-five cents for a pound-and-a-half loaf, and although we were very badly in want of bread at the time, we told her we would sail to Montreal for it sooner than submit to her imposition.

But, resuming: towards evening we settled down to row across the bay to Presqu' Isle Bluff, and as there was not a breath of wind, we accomplished this in about an hour, part of which was consumed in searching along the shore for a good landing-place, which was at length found on the east side of the Bluff. This island, called the Bluff, seems to be formed of stratified rock, which crops out on the lake side, and is covered with a rich dark soil, affording a good field for the agriculturist, which we found had been happily taken advantage of; as, on landing, we were not more than ten feet from a beautiful field of peas, while the whole place was equally well cultivated. We were not long in finding out the proprietor of this fine farm, who received us with the greatest of welcome and hospitality, requesting us to come up and make his house our

own; at the same time introducing us to his wife, who was as full of welcome as himself. This spot seemed the most comfortable of any we had yet visited; the inmates had been married only a few months, and looked none the less happy, and it was not long before we were quite at home. Towards evening we received a visit in our tent from our host and hostess, who came laden with cakes, just baked, butter, and some maple syrup procured from the fine maple bush we saw on the other side of the Bluff. In return we offered them of our best, which was, luckily, our remaining stock of Cobourg cider; and after spending an hour or so in homely chat, they bade us adieu. Being rather early for turning in, the remainder of the evening was whiled away with songs, accompanied by the flute, which was our only available instrument of music; said songs being composed chiefly of choruses, one of which would, if written, appear somewhat like the following:

"In Springfield mountains there did dwell A lovely youth, I knew him well,

With a

Humble, bumble, snickery grin, Nosey, lincuin boo."

After this preliminary verse, any one was at liberty to add some remarkable feature of this "lovely youth," the sketch again terminating with the previous chorus.

It was now Saturday morning, and a heavy rain had set in, which compelled us unwillingly to remain still longer the guests of our friends of the Bluff. They nevertheless were loud in their invitation to remain over Sunday, adding, that it was so seldom they saw any visitors, that our arrival, although unannounced, was a source of great pleasure; the kindness of which remark we could thoroughly appreciate, as four very hungry voyageurs could easily create a panic in any average farm-house larder; and as our host stoutly refused to be in any way requited for his attentions, we were, to say the least, in very peculiar circumstances. To make matters worse, a violent sea from the east set in, which entirely precluded the idea of our getting away. While talking with our host, we discovered, much to our surprise and delight, that the piece of land separating the Bay of Quinté from the lake on this side was only a mile in width, and

that we could easily obtain a portage across, and not only avoid sailing around the broken coast of Prince Edward county, but enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Bay, from Trenton to Picton. After taking a farewell of our friends, and expressing a hope that we might yet have the pleasure of returning their kindness, we set sail on Sunday morning, thinking that a further stoppage on the Bluff would be trespassing on good nature, and wishing to reach Brighton in order to attend church. After a beautiful sail around Presqu' Isle proper, passing the fine lighthouse there, we found ourselves in Presqu' Isle Bay, the natural harbour of Brighton, (the entrance to which is well defined by buoys), and as soon as possible pitched our tent on a beautiful piece of meadow-land at the north end of the Bay. Towards evening we rowed across to Brighton, leaving our tent locked as best we could, hoping to reach a church. After having procured some bread, and sent home news of our safe arrival, we returned to camp, and were soon sound asleep.

"Off to the Portage!" was the cry, bright and early, next morning; and off we started. Unfortunately, however, after a brilliant run of about ten miles we found ourselves, to our intense disgust, in the south end of Weller's Bay, at Consecon, when we should have been at Carrying Place, in the northern portion of the Bay, where the Portage was, and which we had foolishly passed an hour before. The journey was speedily retraced, and our boat was soon on a farmer's waggon which we were lucky enough to procure at once; and thus, for the sum of one dollar, we were safely set down in the waters of Quinté. The native who transported us was very loud in his asseverations regarding the necessity of a canal at this point; but whether for his country's good, or because it would certainly pass through his farm, is a question into which it would be impertinent to inquire. Mr. Biggar, the member for the county, whose residence we passed on the road, stated he was using his best endeavours to draw the attention of the Government to the point in question. It was the generally expressed opinion of the crew, that had the people of Chicago such a chance of advancement and progress close to their very doors, they would not wait for Government, but would dig the canal themselves in a month.

The reader may now picture us sailing on a fair wind down the Bay of Quinté, admiring the beautiful and changing scenery of Prince Edward County-now an orchard covering twenty acres, then a field of grain as level as a table-cloth, and a magnificent bush in the background; the whole forming the surface of a beautiful declivity, commencing at the water's edge, and extending back as far as could be seen. Passing Trenton, with its great saw-mill puffing out its white smoke against a blue sky gathering for a storm, and other mills along the Bay, surrounded by their millions of feet of lumber ready for shipping; and passing just astern of the yacht Dauntless, with its pleasure party, we knew we could not be far from Belleville, at which we arrived after another half-hour's sail, finding a good camping ground a mile and a-half beyond the town. Having pitched our tent, we rowed back to the town, arriving about eight o'clock p.m. However beautiful Belleville may have appeared by the light of day, we were not at all enamoured of it at night; for on landing we ran into something which might, by a lively stretch of imagination, be called a "wharf," but the like of which it would be difficult to find, for of all the muddy entrances to a place, we seemed to have dropped on the worst. After a short walk around the town, during which we gathered a stock of provisions, we set off for our boat, and it was not long before we were snugly ensconced in that movable mansion which was now fondly called "home."

Next morning we paid another visit to the town, and then, returning to the tent, whiled away an hour or two by a little trolling, but without much success. We were expecting that any moment the storm, which had been brewing for the previous two days, would burst upon us. And burst it did at last, resulting in one of the grandest sights of the kind we had ever witnessed. First, betaking ourselves to the tent for shelter, the next business was to cover the bedding in the middle of the tent with the macintosh; and, knowing that we should most certainly be soaked, we adopted the novel and not always practicable expedient of relieving ourselves of all our clothing, and placing it in the heap which we intended to keep dry. The storm broke more fiercely than could have been imagined. No sooner would a flash light

up the surroundings, already nearly as dark as night, than the accompanying roar would peal so close that we expected every moment to see the tent-pole struck by the lightning. But, with such terrific strength, the storm could not last long, and it cleared away in about five minutes, having in its march blown our tent inside out, and twisted the pole to the ground, notwithstanding that our united strength was exerted in its behalf. The rain continued for some time, but did not deter us from procuring a grand supper, on the comfort of which we passed a very pleasant night, rising at four o'clock as if nothing had happened to hinder our progress.

Sail was set at 5.30, and direction taken down the Bay under a fair wind, passing Shannonville, and Mill Point, at the mouth of the Napanee River. Here, the Bay taking a decided turn backwards towards the south, the wind, which had before been fair, became a stiff side one, and its effects were duly experienced as it came in gusts down the hill sides which line the coast of Prince Edward county. The result was the boatswain's cry," All hands at the reefing point!" We had been sailing for two days without the correct time, which was at length procured by hailing the wheelsman of the schooner Sassacus, of Oswego, as we passed astern of her, tacking up the Bay towards Belleville. Landing for the last time on Prince Edward county to take dinner, we enjoyed a delightful plunge from a temporary wharf at which vessels call for cordwood; and here was also relished the first feast of wild raspberries, which we found almost of the size and flavour of garden berries; thus increasing the golden opinions already formed of the county as an agricultural district. Setting sail again, Fredericksburg, about twentysix miles west of Kingston, was reached, and being satisfied with the day's run, we were soon under cover and sound asleep. We were up next morning before the sun, in quest of provisions, and aroused some of the neighbouring farmers from their slumbers, for which we were not at all thanked, being told to obtain provender next door, and so on, until we happened to espy an old gentleman, an earlier bird than his neighbours, and who therefore "caught the worm," if our slight purchase of bread, milk, and eggs might be so called. We were cordially invited to a seat beside him on a fence,

while his men were milking the cows; and after telling him some of our adventures, and listening to a few of his own, we struck our bargain, and went our way once more in peace. The purchases were soon converted into breakfast, which was none the less enjoyable for the morning's walk, and soon after the sails were set against a light headwind, which, freshening and shifting tothe south-west, enabled us to enjoy the sail immensely along Amherst Island, as far as Bath. Opposite to this town we made a landing on the Island for dinner, a portion of which we soon procured near at hand. from a good farmer's wife whose friendship was larger than her means, and who would only consent, after long pressing, to receive payment for a dozen and a-half of eggs which she had gathered up. After our appetites, which were becoming keener with every additional mile, had been satisfied, and a nap indulged in, we proceeded, hoping to make close to Kingston that evening; but after sailing till about six o'clock, the wind died quite away, when it was decided to try a little trolling, taking turns at the oars. Thus we succeeded, while passing the Three Brothers Islands, in hooking two or three fine bass.

After taking a little refreshment on board, we rowed quietly along, seeking a landingplace, till about 9.30 o'clock, when one was found, not greatly to our liking, but satisfactory under the circumstances, for we had nearly given up the hope of finding a retreat, and were expecting to pass the night in the open air, on the boat. As the islands were now becoming numerous, owing to the rocky nature of the country, we experienced more difficulty in landing than heretofore, so it was decided henceforward always to effect that part of our duty before sunset. Rainy weather next day precluded the idea of an early start, and some time was spent in fishing, which was very good in this part of the lake. The rain clearing off, we set sail, or rather rowed, to Kingston, a distance of about three miles, passing on our left the Asylum and Penitentiary, and finally put ting into the mouth of the Rideau Canal. Here we left the "sloop" in charge of a boatman, and went up to the city. Being five o'clock, there was not much time to spare in order to get away that evening; but as very little time was required to see all to be seen in the "old stone city," we set

about laying in a fresh stock of provisions, and about seven o'clock proceeded to our camping-place on Wolfe Island, which was soon reached, thanks to a stiff S.W. breeze. Next day Pitt's Ferry was reached, a village further down the river, on the north channel—that is, between the mainland and Sir John or Howe Island, one of the largest of the "Thousand;" and it was deemed advisable to spend the Sunday there. The farm on which we landed belonged to a gentleman with whom we soon became quite at home. Next morning he drove us to church, and during the drive told us that the Prince's Prize, the highest graduating reward from the University of Toronto, was at that time on his table at home, having been won by his nephew, who, sad to relate, had since died. We had little expected to meet this remembrance of our Alma Mater, far away on the banks of the grand old St. Lawrence, among the rocks and channels of the Thousand Isles, and the recollection turned our minds for the instant to the many like rewards which may now be found, from the Atlantic shores of the Southern States to our own wild and unsettled Manitoba, and we thought of their deserving winners, some of whom had already found an early grave, while others were struggling manfully in the troubled sea of life, bringing credit alike to themselves and to their University.

While here we came to grief, inasmuch as our frying-pan dissolved the partnership hitherto existing between itself and the handle. Luckily our host turned out to be a very Cyclops in his way, possessing a small forge and other vulcanic appliances, by the aid of which the pan and handle were reunited, and we were sent on our way rejoicing. Under a stiff breeze we were not long in making Gananoque, always enjoying the beautiful scenery of the Islands, through multitudes of which we were now passing. Their real beauty can be appreciated only by the sufficiently near approach which can be obtained in a small boat. Rockport was next, passed, a small village on the Canada side, opposite Alexander Bay on the other; when the wind blew a gale, compelling a run into a small bay in Grenadier İsland. Our next run was for dinner, and noticing a neat white house on the Island, it was of course expected to be the very place wanted. Accordingly, the writer, in his capacity of "chief forager," was detailed to negotiate

for victuals, which he at once proceeded to do. Knocking at the door with characteristic modesty, the request was given to enter, when he delivered his small oration for bread, &c. But he was not to meet a Joseph in this land of Egypt, for he was at once face to face with a woman whose Yankee proclivities shone clearly out on her face.

"I don't make a business of selling bread!" said she, with the usual accent, emphasizing the word "selling."

"You're very kind, indeed," was the reply, "but I would rather pay for it."

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Waal, if you get any round here, I kinder guess you rather will pay for it!"

"Thank you; produce the provender," said I, fumbling at the same time for the "lucre."

She produced a pound loaf and demanded twenty-five cents. This was going too far, so, opening the door, the "chief forager" inquired of the crew if they would "go" a quarter for that loaf? The expected answer was received, and the bread accordingly replaced on the table unbought. We were soon glad that we had not squandered our means in riotous living, for we met a "lady," on the Canada side, quite the reverse of our late American friend, and were soon in the midst of a hearty dinner, camping on the mainland near the end of Grenadier Island.

Next morning, Brockville and Maitlandville were passed; and Prescott, the turning point of our career, was reached about four o'clock. We then went across the river to about two miles beyond Ogdensburgh, where we pitched our tent, expecting to remain two days. The following morning we walked in to Ogdensburgh, leaving the "White House," as we now termed the tent, to the mercy of the wide world. The two "cooks" walked to Fleckville, not far from the city, in order to call on a friend who had been expecting their arrival every day, leaving the "foragers" to view the sights, which having been done, the ferry was taken to Prescott, opposite, where we expected to find letters. Having procured these and devoured their contents, we saw Prescott at a glance, and again returned to Ogdensburgh, surprised to mark the striking difference between the two places. Prescott seemed dead, or if alive, only kept so by its being the junction of the Ottawa Railway with the Grand Trunk; while its rival across the

river, although much the younger place, and enjoying no greater natural privileges, seemed all activity and life. Nearly all its streets are avenues, and its business places beautiful indeed, everything appearing so clean and tasteful, that for once we had to confess we were ashamed of Canada, and more particularly of Prescott. Another heavy thunderstorm came on in the evening, but we managed to keep dry, though not without the loss of a good deal of sleep. In the morning we started off, intending to keep the north shore as far as Gananoque, in order to purchase there a stock of provisions. On leaving Prescott the wind was dead ahead, so we were compelled to take a turn at the oars until the wind should shift. In due course we reached Brockville, where we landed to make purchases. The wind having abated, it was deemed prudent to row for a short distance, keeping for a time to the American shore. Shortly after leaving Brockville (and we were loath to leave so beautiful a place), the monotony of our labour was relieved by a hunt. Towards evening we noticed an old duck paddling along the river with her progeny of ducklings at her heels, seemingly learning how to behave themselves on their future element. We expected quite an easy conquest, but by the aid of feet and wings they completely defied our most strenuous endeavours, and finally made good their escape; the result of the chase causing no little chagrin, especially to the oarsmen. Tired with the exertion, we joyfully hailed a camping-place, in a small bay in the river, called Put-in Bay. Here we remained for the night, and having smoked the mosquitoes from the tent, were soon fast asleep.

The next morning we spent in renovating our disordered and disintegrated apparel, which duty, by dint of perseverance and loss of blood, we succeeded at last in accomplishing to a passable extent, and after a grand plunge in "Father St. Lawrence," we again took the line of march towards home. Grenadier Island was now passed on the south side, the north having been taken previously. Looking for a place where we might procure dinner, we espied what we thought, though with a slight misgiving, a suitable one. But our appetites were keen, so we steered boldly for what turned out not to be a farm-house. Upon coming close

enough to shore to be heard, we inquired o a youth, who from his auburn locks might have "fired the Ephesian dome," if we could obtain anything to eat there, never for a moment supposing that our motives could be misunderstood; but judge of our surprise when he introduced a "child of larger growth," who politely informed us that they had just finished dinner (comforting intelligence), and had nothing left but a few crusts, to which we were quite welcome. The young lady of the place, coming upon the scene of action, saw at a glance how matters stood, and, after apologizing, politely replied that they had just arrived, and not having their cooking apparatus in working order, were none too well supplied with provisions themselves, but that we might procure some at the next island. Having forgiven Brother Jonathan for his sister's sake, we began to gaze at one another's personal appearance, and to tell the truth our loose manner of dress was not calculated to elevate us in the opinion of the neighbouring community, so we made the best of the small stock of provisions we had on board. Shortly after, we fell in with an island covered with large blue and black whortleberries, the excellence of which we were not slow in appreciating, thus attempting to make amends for the meagre previous meal.

We then set sail for Rockport, which we had passed on the down journey, hoping this time to be able to procure some provisions there; but after inquiring at every place in the village and finding nothing, we set sail, and found a small store on the north shore, where we gladly purchased a good supply of bread, crackers, eggs, &c., and at once proceeded to camp on one of the many small islands which are clustered in that part of the river. Next morning, the wind being very light, and dead ahead, we rowed as far as Gananoque, about eight miles distant. This we performed in about two hours, greatly enjoying the beautiful scenery, which is grander here than at any other part of the river. Our course was next towards Wolfe Island. The river at this point is very wide, Sir John's Island lying between the north channel (that by which we had gone down) and the middle channel, in which we now were, though, thinking there were only two channels, we concluded that we were sailing in

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