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so we were glad to camp when we eventually were able to obtain water by digging. The boat sections-as usual, well in rear-and the rear-guard were attacked by a swarm of bees, so Osborn and the men were compelled to beat a hasty retreat and abandon their charge, which was only brought into camp after sundown, when the bees had retired to rest. Many hollowed-out cylindrical logs of wood were hereabouts hung up in the trees by natives for the purpose of collecting honey, as these receptacles become quickly occupied by bees, who establish their homes in them. A strict silence is generally observed by the caravan when passing under these, for should any noise be made, the vicious little occupants descend in thousands and quickly put to flight those who had ventured to disturb them in their peaceful retreat. Few things are more disconcerting to a caravan than being attacked by a swarm of bees, and men and even animals are not unfrequently stung to death by these infuriated insects. The way in which porters throw aside their loads and bolt, slapping themselves all over to get rid of their pursuers, is really intensely ludicrous, and causes much amusement until the jiber is attacked, when he, too, quickly realizes that the fun is all on the side of the bees.

Continuing in a north-westerly direction, we reached the river Kerio on October 10, and were pleased to find the river fordable. This stream is at times a most formidable obstacle, as it arises in the Mau Mountains, whence the Kamasia and Elgeyo continuations of that range bifurcate, and drains the whole of the western and eastern slopes respectively of those two lofty escarpments, flowing at the base of the deep intermediate valley. In 1892, when Captain (now Major) Pringle and I were proceeding to Njemps from Kavirondo, crossing the Elgeyo and Kamasia ranges very much as Joseph Thomson had done, we were delayed for several days by the Kerio, over which we had to construct a 100foot bridge for the passage of our porters and loads; and that

was at a point many miles nearer its source than where we now struck it. The men and donkeys forded the river without much difficulty, but we had a regular tussle with the camels, who, in spite of a ramp being prepared for them on the far bank, refused to attempt to negotiate the ascent. Eventually we were compelled to unload them, pass ropes round their sterns, and haul them forcibly out of the river up the incline; so it was past 4 p.m. before the whole caravan, loads, etc., were safely across on the left bank. The Kerio flows generally in a northerly direction, and enters Lake Rudolf near its southern extremity; but, like the Turkwel, the river becomes gradually absorbed by the dry, arid, sandy soil of the country through which it passes, and little, if any, of its waters ever reach the lake at all.

Next day we continued in a westerly direction towards the Elgeyo escarpment, crossing several deep, thicklywooded ravines on the plains before we reached a powerful stream and the first Suk settlement of Kivas at the foot of the hills. A few natives were seen for the first time since leaving Baringo, and small plots of cultivation existed along the lower slopes of the hills, but the crops were in a young and green stage. Next day we continued for some seven miles through thorn and bush along the foot of the hills, crossing five or six beautiful streams of water, and then, rounding a spur, crossed the Siga stream, and found ourselves in a regular bay in the hills. This spot was charmingly wooded with scattered trees, grassy glades, free from thorn and bush, giving it the appearance of parkland, whilst above us towered the mountains, broken here and there by fine craggy peaks, lofty and bold in outline. We saw many Wa-Suk (natives of Suk) squatting in batches along the side of the track, who, though not unfriendly, were somewhat nervous, and viewed the advent of the strange white men with suspicion. The striking of a match to light a pipe with seemed to mystify and frighten them much, as

this means of suddenly obtaining fire was beyond their comprehension, for their method of doing so—by rubbing pieces of wood together and gradually causing ignition by frictionwas the only one known to them.

The guide, who had brought us up to this point from Njemps, and was to accompany us as far as Marich, whence he was to return to his home, now obtained for us the services of a Suk guide, Nyanga by name, who knew well the Karamojo and Turkana country and the dialects of those natives. This man remained with the expedition for over a year, a considerable portion of which time he was with me, and proved invaluable, as his intimate knowledge of the country traversed was extraordinary. He was certainly the most intelligent native of his class that I have ever been accompanied by in my travels.

We had soon traversed the park-like country next day, and were again confronted with thick bush and euphorbia growth, which necessitated much cutting, as the track was so overgrown that in parts regular tunnels existed, along which a man could only proceed in a stooping position. All this had to be cleared overhead for the passage of porters carrying loads, and still more so for our ungainly but useful camels. In addition, several steep, rocky watercourses had to be negotiated, which caused great delays to the transport animals and the men carrying the boat. Before reaching the stream in the Weiwei district, on which we camped for the day, at the mouth of a deep wide valley running in a southerly direction into the heart of the mountains, we were met by a large deputation of Wa-Suk. Previous to our advent, Count Teleki and Lieutenant Höhnel were the only Europeans who had ever entered these Suk settlements, which they did on their return from the discovery of Lakes Rudolf and Stefanie, some ten years before. The Suk were doubtful, therefore, regarding the attitude we were likely to assume, and they candidly informed us that they had held

a big 'shauri' (council) to discuss whether to fight us or not. They had decided we were too strong, and desired, therefore, to remain friends with us, as they themselves were now weak, the result of having been recently much harassed by the Masai. Our Masai smiled in a superior kind of way when they heard this explanation, for they had had a hand, in days gone by, in attacks upon the Suk, although they had by no means universally come out top in these encounters with the hardy mountaineers we were now amongst. We reciprocated heartily the friendly feelings expressed, and replied that it was our earnest wish to remain at peace with all men. Unfortunately, the elders could not promise to sell us much in the way of food, which I was most anxious to obtain, for a post had to be established at our next camp -Marich-where a month's supply, at least, would be necessary for the garrison, and we still had a long stretch of foodless country to traverse before we could hope to reach the flesh-pots of Karamojo. The crops everywhere were quite unripe, and the Suk complained that they themselves were, and would continue to be, extremely hungry' until their next harvest had been gathered in.

Cutting our laborious way again next day along the foot of the hills, through dense euphorbia growths and bush, and being confronted with several evil rocky watercourses, it was 4 p.m. before the rear-guard had covered the necessary seven miles to reach the Muroni River and the district of Marich. Osborn had the misfortune to lose his ponythe only one in the column, as we always walked-which dropped dead during the march, whilst one of the camels also, in negotiating a watercourse, slipped and sustained a compound fracture of a foreleg below the knee, and had to be destroyed. Marich was reached by us on October 14, and for the next three or four days we remained halted at that place, during which a large clearing was made on a suitable site, and a post constructed for the accommodation of the

garrison and the steel boat and such loads of reserve rations as were for a time to be left there. We were all thankful during our further travels to Save that we were no longer encumbered with the boat, and had lightened the column down in other respects as well, for, although during the latter end of our journey to Marich progress had been dismally slow and laboured, the difficulties of the country now ahead of us were incomparably more trying to men and animals.

Several desertions had recently taken place amongst our porters, when we reached the outskirts and during our progress through Suk country, due, perhaps, to the presence of the awkward sections of the boat, which was a most unpopular load, and for which fresh men had to be detailed in turn each day, as it so exhausted those who were deputed to transport it. During our stay at Marich, although the natives freely visited our camp, we could obtain no flour from them, as they maintained they had none for sale, and merely brought round a few pumpkins, which were hawked about camp, and for which exorbitant prices in the shape of brass wire and cowries were asked.

Before we continue the journey let me try and give some description of the country and the people we are now amongst. The section of the Suk people we had now met are a hardy type of mountaineers, who, for security against attack, build their huts and small hamlets high up on the hillsides, along the foot of which we had recently been travelling. During the last few marches from Kivas we had seen numbers of these habitations, some of which are perched on the summits of almost inaccessible precipices and crags. Many beautiful streams issue from the hills and find their way out on to the plains below, where they either join the Kerio or, eventually, by way of the Weiwei, the Turkwel River, their waters thus being borne north towards that striking reservoir, having no outlet, which is now generally

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