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CONTENTS.
THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN SUBURBS.
CHAPTER I.
BELGRAVIA.
Prefatory Remarks-The Building of the District-De Moret, and his Flying-machine-Nature of the Soil of Belgravia—“Slender Billy"
-The Spanish Monkey "Mukako" and Tom Cribb's Fighting Dogs-The Grosvenor Family-Enormous Rent-rolls-Belgravia and
Bethnal Green compared-Lanesborough House-St. George's Hospital-Old "Tattersall's "-St. George's Place--Liston, the Comedian
-Pope's School-days -The Alexandra Hotel-The Old Toll-gate at Hyde Park Corner-Grosvenor Place--The "Feathers" Tavern,
and how George Prince of Wales was made an Odd Fellow there-Arabella Row-A Witty Lord Chancellor -The "Bag o' Nails "-
The "Three Compasses "-Belgrave Square-"Gentleman Jones"-Eccleston Street-Sir Francis Chantrey-St. Paul's Church,
Wilton Place-The Pantechnicon-Halkin Street-Upper and Lower Belgrave Streets-Suicide of Lord Munster-Eaton Square-Chester
Square-Ebury Street-Lowndes Square-Cadogan Place--William Wilberforce-The Locality in Former Times
CHAPTER II.
KNIGHTSBRIDGE.
Derivation of the Name of Knightsbridge-Early History of the Locality-The Old Bridge-Insecurity of the Roads, and Bad Reputation of
the Innkeepers-Historical Events connected with Knightsbridge-The Old "Swan" Inn-Electioneering Riots-An Eccentric Old
Lady-The "Spring Garden" and the "World's End"-Knightsbridge Grove-Mrs. Cornelys as a Vendor of Asses' Milk-Albert
Gate-The Fox and Bull"-The French Embassy-George Hudson, the "Railway King"-The Cannon Brewery-Dunn's Chinese
Gallery -Trinity Chapel and the Lazar House-"Irregular" Marriages-Knightsbridge Barracks-Smith and Barber's Floor-cloth
Manufactory-Edward Stirling, the "Thunderer" of the Times-Kent House-Kingston House-Rutland Gate-Ennismore Place-
Brompton Oratory-Brompton Church-Count Rumford and other Distinguished Residents-New "Tattersall's "-The Green-
Chalker House-The "Rose and Crown" Inn-The "Rising Sun"-Knightsbridge Cattle Market
CHAPTER III.
THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF 1851.
Previous Exhibitions of a somewhat similar Character-The Marquis d'Aveze's projected Exhibition-Various French Expositions-Competitive
Exhibitions in England-Prince Albert's Proposal for holding an Industrial Exhibition of All Nations-His Royal Highness becomes
Chairman of the Royal Commission-Banquet at the Mansion House-Lecturers and Agents sent all over the Country, to Explain
the Objects of the Exhibition-Reception of Plans and Designs-Mr. Paxton's Design accepted-Realisation of one of the Earliest
Poetica! Dreams in the English Language-General Description of the Building-Opening of the Exhibition by Her Majesty-
Number of Visitors-Removal of the Building-The National Albert Memorial
CHAPTER IV.
PIMLICO.
Etymology of Pimlico-The Locality Half a Century Ago-Warwick Square-Vauxhall Bridge Road-The Army Clothing Depôt-St.
George's Square-The Church of St. James the Less-Victoria Railway Station-New Chelsea Bridge-The Western Pumping Station,
and Metropolitan Main-Drainage Works-St. Barnabas Church-St. Barnabas Mission House and Orphanage-Bramah, the Engineer
and Locksmith-Thomas Cubitt, the Builder-The "Monster" Tavern-The "Gun," the "Star and Garter," and the "Orange" Tea-
Gardens-"Jenny's Whim"-Tart Hall - Stafford Row-St. Peter's Chapel and Dr. Dodd-Richard Heber and his famous Library
CHAPTER V.
CHELSEA.
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Boundary of the Parish-Etymology of its Name-Charles II. and Colonel Blood-Chelsea Fields-The "Dwarf's Tavern "- -Chapels of
French Huguenot Refugees-Gardens and Nurseries-Appearance of Chelsea from the River-Chelsea in the Last Century-A Stag
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Hunt in Chelsea-History of the Manor-The Old Manor House and its Eminent Residents-Lord Cremorne's Farm at Chelsea-Lady
Cremorne-Lindsey House-The Moravians-The Duchess of Mazarine-Sir Robert Walpole's House-Shrewsbury House-Winchester
House-Beaufort House and the "Good" Sir Thomas More-Anecdotes of Sir Thomas More-The Old and New Parish Churches
50
CHAPTER VI.
CHELSEA (continued).
Cheyne Walk-An Eccentric Miser-Dominicetti, an Italian Quack-Don Saltero's Coffee House and Museum-Catalogue of Rarities in
the Museum-Thomas Carlyle-Chelsea Embankment-Albert Bridge-The Mulberry Garden-The Swan" Inn-The Rowing
Matches for Doggett's Coat and Badge-The Botanic Gardens-The Old Bun-house.
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CHAPTER VII.
CHELSEA (continued).—THE HOSPITAL, &C.
Foundation of the Hospital-The Story of Nell Gwynne and the Wounded Soldier-Chelsea College-Archbishop Bancroft's Legacy-Trans-
ference of the College to the Royal Society-The Property sold to Sir Stephen Fox, and afterwards given as a Site for the Hospital-
Lord Ranelagh's Mansion-Dr. Monsey-The Chudleigh Family-The Royal Hospital described-Lying in State of the Duke of
Wellington-Regulations for the Admission of Pensioners-A few Veritable Centenarians-The "Snow Shoes" Tavern-The Duke of
York's School-Ranelagh Gardens, and its Former Glories-The Victoria Hospital for Sick Children
CHAPTER VIII.
CHELSEA (continued).—CREMORNE GARDENS, &c.
Chelsea Farm, the Residence of Lord Cremorne-Cremorne Gardens-Attempts at Aërial Navigation-Ashburnham House-The Ash-
burnham Tournament-The "Captive" Balloon-Turner's Last Home-Noted Residents in Lindsey Row-The King's Road-The Old
Burial-ground-St. Mark's College-The "World's End" Tavern-Chelsea Common-Famous Nurseries-Chelsea Park-The "Goat
in Boots"-The Queen's Elm-The Jews' Burial-ground-Shaftesbury House-The Workhouse-Sir John Cope-Robert Boyle, the
Philosopher and Chemist-The Earl of Orrery-Mr. Adrian Haworth-Dr. Atterbury-Shadwell, the Poet-The "White Horse"
Inn-Mr. H. S. Woodfall-The Original of "Strap the Barber" in "Roderick Random "-Danvers Street-Justice Walk-The Old
Wesleyan Chapel-Chelsea China-Lawrence Street-Tobias Smollett-Old Chelsea Stage-coaches-Sir Richard Steele and other Noted
Residents-The Old Clock-house-The Glaciarium-Hospital for Diseases of Women-Chelsea Vestry Hall, and Literary and Scientific
Institution-Congregational Church-Royal Avenue Skating-rink-Sloane Square Bloody Bridge-Chelsea, Brompton, and Belgrave
Dispensary-Royal Court Theatre-Hans Town-Sloane Street-Trinity Church-Sloane Terrace Wesleyan Chapel-Sir C. W. Dilke,
Bart.-Ladies' Work Society-Hans Town School of Industry for Girls-"Count Cagliostro"-An Anecdote of Professor Porson-
Chelsea House-St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel-The Marlborough Tavern "-Hans Place-Miss Letitia E. Landon-The
Pavilion-St. Saviour's Church-Prince's Cricket ground and Skating-rink-The "South Australian"
CHAPTER IX.
WEST BROMPTON, SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, &c.
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Situation of Brompton-Its Nurseries and Flower-gardens-Cromwell or Hale House-Thistle Grove-The Boltons-Westminster and West
London Cemetery-Brompton Hall-St. Michael's Grove-Brompton Grove-John Sidney Hawkins-Gloucester Lodge--The Hospital
for Consumption-The Cancer Hospital-Pelham Crescent-Onslow Square-Eagle Lodge-Thurloe Place and Square-Cromwell
Road-The International Exhibition of 1862-Annual International Exhibitions-A School of Cookery-Exhibition of Scientific Appa-
ratus-The National Portrait Gallery-The Meyrick Collection of Arms and Armour-The Indian Museum-South Kensington Museum
-The Raphael Cartoons-The Sheepshanks, Ellison, and Vernon Galleries-Ancient and Modern Jewellery-The Museum of Patents
-The Science and Art Schools-The Royal Albert Hall-The National Training School for Music-Royal Horticultural Gardens-The
Fisheries Exhibition
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CHAPTER X.
"THE OLD COURT SUBURB."-KENSINGTON.
Descent of the Manor-A Parochial Enigma-Derivation of the Name of Kensington-Thackeray's "Esmond "-Leigh Hunt's Reminis-
cences-Gore House-Mr. Wilberforce, the Philanthropist-Lord Rodney-The Countess of Blessington and her Admirers-An
Anecdote of Louis Napoleon-Count D'Orsay's Picture-A Touching Incident-Sale of the Contents of Gore House, and Death of the
Countess of Blessington-M. Soyer's "Symposium "-Sale of the Gore House Estate-Park House-Hamilton Lodge, the Residence
of John Wilkes-Batty's Hippodrome-St. Stephen's Church-Orford Lodge-Christ Church
The Old Court Suburb-Pepys at "Kingly Kensington "-The High Street-Thackeray's "Esmond "-Palace Gate-Colby House-Singular
Death-Kensington House: its Early History-Famous Inhabitants-Old Kensington Bedlam-The New House-Young Street-Ken-
sington Square Famous Inhabitants-Talleyrand-An Aged Waltzer-Macaulay's Description of Talleyrand-The New Parish Church
-The Old Building-The Monuments-The Bells-The Parish Registers-The Charity School-Campden House-"The Dogs "-Sir
James South's Observatory-A Singular Sale-Other Noted Residents at Kensington-Insecurity of the Kensington Road-A Remark-
able Dramatic Performance-A Ghost Story-The Crippled Boys' Home-Scarsdale House-The Roman Catholic University College
Roman Catholic Chapels-The Pro-Cathedral-The "Adam and Eve "
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CHAPTER XII.
KENSINGTON PALACE.
Situation of Kensington Palace-Houses near it-Kensington Palace Gardens-The "King's Arms"-Henry VIII.'s Conduit-Palace Green
-The Kensington Volunteers-The Water Tower-Thackeray's House: his Death-Description of the Palace-The Chapel-The
Principal Pictures formerly shown here-Early History of the Building-William III. and Dr. Radcliffe-A "Scene" in the Royal
Apartments-Death of Queen Mary and William III.-Queen Anne and the Jacobites-"Scholar Dick," and his Fondness for the
Bottle-Lax Manners of the Court under the Early Georges-Death of George II.-The Princess Sophia-Caroline, Princess of Wales
-Balls and Parties given by her Royal Highness-An Undignified Act-The Duke of Sussex's Hospitality-Birth of the Princess
Victoria-Her Baptism-Death of William IV., and Accession of Queen Victoria-Her First Council-Death of the Duke of Sussex-
The Duchess of Inverness-Other Royal Inhabitants
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CHAPTER XIII.
KENSINGTON GARDENS.
'Military" Appearance of the Gardens, as laid out by Wise and Loudon-Addison's Comments on the Horticultural Improvements of his
Time-The Gardens as they appeared at the Beginning of the Last Century-Queen Anne's Banqueting House-Statue of Dr. Jenner-
Bridgeman's Additions to the Gardens-The "Ha! ha!"-" Capability” Brown-The Gardens first opened to the Public-A
Foreigner's Opinion of Kensington Gardens-"Tommy Hill" and John Poole-Introduction of Rare Plants and Shrubs-Scotch Pines
and other Trees-A Friendly Flash of Lightning-The Reservoir and Fountains-Tickell, and his Poem on Kensington Gardens-
Chateaubriand-Introduction of Hooped Petticoats-The Broad Walk becomes a Fashionable Promenade-Eccentricities in Costume-
The Childhood of Queen Victoria, and her Early Intercourse with her Future Subjects-A Critical Review of the Gardens
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CHAPTER XIV.
HOLLAND HOUSE, AND ITS HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.
Earl's Court-John Hunter's House-Mrs. Inchbald-Edwardes Square-Warwick Road and Warwick Gardens-Addison Road-Holland
House-An Antique Relic-The Pictures and Curiosities-The Library-The Rooms occupied by Addison, Charles Fox, Rogers, and
Sheridan-Holland House under the Family of Rich-Theatrical Performances carried on by Stealth during the Commonwealth-
Subsequent Owners of the Mansion-Oliver Goldsmith-Addison-The House purchased by Henry Fox, afterwards Lord Holland-The
Story of Henry Fox's Elopement with the Daughter of the Duke of Richmond-Lady Sarah Lennox and the Private Theatricals—
Charles James Fox-Henry Richard, third Lord Holland, and his Imperious Wife-Lord Macaulay, and other Distinguished Guests-
"Who is Junius?"-Lord Holland and the Emperor Napoleon-Death of Lord Holland, and his Character, as written by a Friend-
A Curious Custom-The Duel between Lord Camelford and Captain Best-Rogers' Grotto-The Gardens and Grounds-Canova's Bust
of Napoleon-The Highland and Scottish Societies' Sports and Pastimes-A Tradition concerning Cromwell and Ireton-Little
Holland House-The Residence of General Fox-The Nursery-grounds
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CHAPTER XV.
NOTTING HILL AND BAYSWATER.
The Old Turnpike Gate-Derivation of the Name of Notting Hill-The Manor of Notting or Nutting Barns-Present Aspect of Notting Hill-
Old Inns and Taverns-Gallows Close-The Road where Lord Holland drew up his Forces previous to the Battle of Brentford-
Kensington Gravel Pits-Tradesmen's Tokens-A Favourite Locality for Artists and Laundresses-Appearance of the District at the
Beginning of the Present Century-Reservoirs of the Grand Junction Waterworks Company-Ladbroke Square and Grove-Ken-
sington Park Gardens-St. John's Church-Notting Hill Farm-Norland Square-Orme Square-Bayswater House, the Residence of
Fauntleroy, the Forger-St. Petersburgh Place-The Hippodrome-St. Stephen's Church-Portobello Farm-The Convent of the Little
Sisters of the Poor-Bayswater-The Cultivation of Watercresses-An Ancient Conduit-Public Tea Gardens-Sir John Hill, the
Botanist-Craven House-Craven Road, and Craven Hill Gardens-The Pest-house Fields-Upton Farm-The Toxophilite Society-
Westbourne Grove and Terrace-The Residence of John Sadleir, the Fraudulent M.P.-Lancaster Gate-The Pioneer of Tramways—
Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital-Death of Dr. Adam Clarke-The Burial-ground of St. George's, Hanover Square
CHAPTER XVI.
TYBURN AND TYBURNIA.
Derivation of the Name of Tyburn-Earliest Executions on this Spot-Sir Roger Bolinbroke, the Conjuror-Elizabeth Barton, the "Holy
Maid of Kent"-Execution of Roman Catholics-Morocco Men-Mrs. Turner, the Poisoner, and Inventor of the Yellow Starched Ruffs
and Cuffs-Resuscitation of a Criminal after Execution-Colonel Blood-Jack Sheppard and Jonathan Wild-Mrs. Catherine Hayes
-"Clever Tom Clinch "-" Execution Day "-The Execution of Lord Ferrers-The Rev. Mr. Hackman-Dr. Dodd-The Last Act of
a Highwayman's Life-" Sixteen-string Jack "-McLean, the "Fashionable Highwayman"-Claude Duval-John Twyn, an Offending
Printer-John Haynes, and his Resuscitation after Hanging-Ryland, the Forger-An Unlucky Jest-" Jack Ketch"-Tyburn Tickets
-Hogarth's "Tom Idle "-The Gallows and its Surroundings-The Story of the Penance of Queen Henrietta Maria-An Anecdote
about George III.-The Site of Tyburn Tree-The Tyburn Pew-opener-Tyburnia-Connaught Place-The Princess Charlotte and
the Prince of Orange-The Residence of Mr. T. Assheton-Smith, and of Haydon the Painter
CHAPTER XVII.
PADDINGTON.
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Rustic Appearance of Paddington at the Commencement of this Century-Intellectual Condition of the Inhabitants-Gradual Increase of
the Population-The Manor of Paddington-The Feast of Abbot Walter, of Westminster-The Prior of St. Bartholomew's and his
Brethren-Dr. Sheldon's Claim of the Manor-The Old Parish Church-Hogarth's Marriage-Building of the New Parish Church--A
Curious Custom-Poorness of the Living-The Burial-ground-Noted Persons buried here-Life of Haydon, the Painter-Dr. Geddes-
The New Church of St. James-Holy Trinity Church-All Saints' Church-The House of the Notorious Richard Brothers-Old Public-
houses- Old Paddington Green-The Vestry Hall-The Residences of Thomas Uwins, R.A., and Wyatt, the Sculptor-Eminent Residents
-The Princess Charlotte and her Governess-Paddington House-" Jack-in-the-Green "-Westbourne Place-Westbourne Green-Des-
borough Place--Westbourne Farm, the Residence of Mrs. Siddons-The Lock Hospital and Asylum-St. Mary's Hospital-Paddington
Provident Dispensary-The Dudley Stuart Home-"The Boatman's Chapel "-Queen's Park-Old Almshouses-Grand Junction Canal
-The Western Water-Works -Imperial Gas Company-Kensal Green Cemetery -Eminent Persons buried here -Great Western
Railway Terminus
204
CHAPTER XVIII.
UNDERGROUND LONDON: ITS RAILWAYS, SUBWAYS, AND SEWERS.
Proposal of a Scheme for Underground Railways-Difficulties and Oppositions it had to encounter-Commencement of the Undertaking-
Irruption of the Fleet Ditch-Opening of the Metropolitan Railway-Influx of Bills to Parliament for the Formation of other Under-
ground Lines -Adoption of the "Inner Circle" Plan-Description of the Metropolitan Railway and its Stations-The " Nursery-maids'
Walk"-A Great Triumph of Engineering Skill-Extension of the Line from Moorgate Street-The East London Railway-Engines
and Carriages, and Mode of Lighting-Signalling-Ventilation of the Tunnel -Description of the Metropolitan District Railway-
Workmen's Trains-The Water Supply and Drainage of London-Subways for Gas, Sewage, and other Purposes .
CHAPTER XIX.
KILBURN AND ST. JOHN'S WOOD.
Rural Aspect of Kilburn in Former Times-Maida Vale-Derivation of the Name of Kilburn-The Old Road to Kilburn-Godwin, the Hermit
of Kilburn--The Priory-Extracts from the Inventory of the Priory-The Sisterhood of St. Peter's-St. Augustine's Church—Kilburn
Wells and Tea-gardens-The "Bell" Tavern-A Legend of Kilburn-The Roman Catholic Chapel-George Brummell's liking for Plum
Cake-Oliver Goldsmith's Suburban Quarters-Lausanne Cottage-St. John's Wood-Babington, the Conspirator-Sir Edwin Landseer
-Thomas Landseer-George Osbaldiston and other Residents in St. John's Wood-Lord's Cricket Ground-The "Eyre Arms" Tavern
-Charitable Institutions-Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady-St. Mark's Church-St. John's Wood Chapel and Burial-ground-
Richard Brothers and Joanna Southcott
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• 243
CHAPTER XX.
MARYLEBONE, NORTH: ITS HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.
North Bank and South Bank-Rural Aspect of the Neighbourhood Half a Century Ago-Marylebone Park-Taverns and Tea-gardens -The
"Queen's Head and Artichoke "—The "Harp "-The "Farthing Pie House "-The "Yorkshire Stingo "—The Introduction of London
Omnibuses by Mr. Shillibeer-Marylebone Baths and Washhouses-Queen Charlotte's Lying in Hospital-The New Road-The
Paddington Stage-Coach-A Proposed Boulevard round the Outskirts of London-Dangers of the Road-Lisson Grove-The Philo-
logical School-A Favourite Locality for Artists-John Martin, R. A.-Chapel Street-Leigh Hunt-Church Street-The Royal Alfred
Theatre-Metropolitan Music-Hall-Portman Market-Blandford Square -The Convent of the Sisters of Mercy-Michael Faraday as a
Bookbinder-Harewood Square-Dorset Square-The Original "Lord's' Cricket-Ground-Upper Baker Street-Mrs. Siddons'
Residence-The Notorious Richard Brothers-Invention of the "Tilbury".
CHAPTER XXI.
THE REGENT'S PARK: THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, &c.
254
Rural Character of the Site in Former Times--A Royal Hunting-ground-The Original Estate disparked-Purchased from the Property of
the Duke of Portland-Commencement of the Present Park-The Park thrown open to the Public-Proposed Palace for the Prince
Regent-Description of the Grounds and Ornamental Waters-The Broad Walk-Italian Gardens and Lady Burdett-Coutts' Drinking-
Fountain-The Sunday Afternoon Band-Terraces and Villas-Lord Hertford and the Giants from St. Dunstan's Church-Mr. Bishop's
Observatory-Explosion on the Regent's Canal-The Baptist College-Mr. James Silk Buckingham-Ugo Foscolo-Park Square-Sir
Peter Laurie a Resident here-The Diorama-The Building turned into a Baptist Chapel-The Colosseum-The Great Panorama of
London-The "Glaciarium"-The Cyclorama of Lisbon-St. Katharine's College-The Adult Orphan Institution-Chester Terrace and
Chester Place-Mrs. Fitzherbert's Villa-The Grounds of the Toxophilite Society-The Royal Botanical Society-The Zoological
Gardens
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CHAPTER XXII.
PRIMROSE HILL AND CHALK FARM.
Situation of Primrose Hill, and its Appearance in Bygone Times-Barrow Hill and the West Middlesex Waterworks-The Manor of Chalcot-
Murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey-Duel between Ugo Foscolo and Graham-Primrose Hill purchased by the Crown, and made a
Park for the People-The Tunnel through the Hill-Fireworks in Celebration of the Peace in 1856-The Shakespeare Oak-Lady
Byron's Residence-Chalk Farm-Duels fought there-The Wrestling Club of Cumberland and Westmorland-The Eccentric Lord
Coleraine The Old Chalk Farm Tavern-The Railway Station-Pickford's Goods Depôt-The Boys' Home-The "York and Albany"
Tavern-Gloucester Gate-Albany Street-The Guards' Barracks-Park Village East-Cumberland Market-Munster Square-Osna-
burgh Street-Sir Goldsworthy Gurney-The "Queen's Head and Artichoke "-Trinity Church
CHAPTER XXIIL
EUSTON ROAD, HAMPSTEAD ROAD, AND THE ADJACENT NEIGHBOURHOOD.
Pastoral Character of the Locality in the Last Century-The Euston Road-Statuary-yards-The "Adam and Eve" Tavern-Its Tea-
gardens and its Cakes and Creams-A "Strange and Wonderful Fruit"-Hogarth's Picture of the "March of the Guards to
Finchley "-The "Paddington Drag "-A Miniature Menagerie-A Spring-water Bath-Eden Street-Hampstead Road-The "Sol's
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