cove of romance could not well be imagined, for the bay, as soon as the entrance is gained, trends sharply to the right, and is thus almost entirely screened by the friendly cliff, which frowns menacingly out to sea. To complete the list of its virtues, the upper or southern end of the cove terminates in a narrow, sandy beach, which is completely invisible from the sea. In addition to the surf, which beats almost continuously upon this coast, the drawback to Arksis as a port is that the cove is too small for any oceangoing vessel to enter, and the submerged rocks which abound in it render it necessary that the greatest care should be exercised in the handling of even much smaller craft.

But of a

On the best maps-and here, be it remarked, the map-makers of this part of the world are often grievously at fault—its situation is marked in lat. 29° 10′ N.; and in some of the older charts it is named Port Hillsborough. This name was conferred upon it by a Captain Glasse, who ransomed some Europeans detained by the Berbers in slavery in 1760. 'borough,' or even human habitation of any kind, not a sign is visible at Arksis to-day. To the south a mile or two are to be seen the ruins of a building of some description, only four rude stone walls being left standing, but this may be a relic of the last European expedition under the leadership of the late Mr. James Curtis, who visited Arksis for the last time early in 1883. I am inclined to the belief that it is of European origin, as stones were the material used in its construction, whereas all the native buildings throughout Sus are of tabbia-a mixture of rubble that is held together by the addition of water and an inferior kind of lime that is found throughout Morocco

and Sus. No definite information, however, was obtainable from the natives, although they well remembered Curti,' and spoke of him in kindly terms.

Poor Curtis! His trading venture with the Sbooyas was a dead failure. He was swindled right and left by these scoundrelly thieves, and shortly afterwards went to Egypt to try and reach Khartum, where Gordon was upholding the British flag against the Mahdi, and wearily waiting for the relief that was sent to him two days 'too late.' Curtis spoke Arabic, or, at least, Moghrebin, fairly well, and travelled, as he had done in Sus, in the garb of a Moslem; but his disguise was not sufficient to deceive the Mohammedans themselves, and he vanished, like many another brave man before and after him, in the devouring maw of the insatiable Sudan.

One relic of his stay at Arksis is certainly visible to-day. From the head of the cove the red rock rises sharply upwards, but up its steep slopes a narrow zigzag pathway was cut under his directions by the natives to facilitate the climb, and the carriage of goods, from the beach to the plateau above. But where the booted Christian would painfully climb with faltering steps, the native Berber from the hills, and the Arab from the desert, run up and down these sharp rocks and stones in bare or slippered feet with the agility and surefootedness of the mountain-goat. Their lean, brown, sinewy legs are scored with white lines where the sharp thorns of the cactus scrub have scratched their hardened skins.

We did not consider it safe to beach the launch, for fear of damaging the screw, so the Berthon canvas boat was brought into requisition, and one by one we landed, being finally carried ashore on the backs of

the natives, who tucked their clothes under their arms and waded into the water. The tents, instruments, etc., were brought ashore in a similar manner, and deposited on the beach.

The excitement of the natives on our landing was amusing to witness. The more dignified of them squatted on their haunches on the ridge of the cliff, and cuddled their long guns after the manner of Moors. But the rest came scrambling down the rocks chattering and gesticulating like a lot of monkeys, and formed round each of us an eager and curious group. Our weapons were, of course, the object of the greatest interest, the revolvers especially evoking wonder and covetousness in a marked degree. Our watches also created considerable astonishment, but as they were not things wherewith you could slay your neighbour or your enemy, they soon fell back on fingering our revolvers, and admiring the points and edges of our knives.

They were not by any means prepossessing in appearance, being unwashed in body and farouche in expression. The wives of many of the Susi tribesmen are negresses-slave or freed-and the large admixture of negro blood is evidenced in their thick lips and dark skin. In stature they are of medium height, and, though thin and slender, are exceedingly strong and wiry. Their physical endurance is remarkable, and nothing is thought of a man covering on foot forty or fifty miles a day for several days together, with perhaps only one meal in every twenty-four hours. They have also that exquisite grace of pose and carriage which is characteristic of the Berber race; and, indeed, I think it is no exaggeration to say that one has to go back to ancient statuary to match the