ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. 63 on account of the many rocks but slightly covered by the sea. The signal was answered by the putting off from Alexandria of a pilot-boat, with its graceful latteen sail, which bounded like a bird, over the rather heavy swell of the bay. It soon neared us; and it was quite an exciting picture when we saw its little crew in their graceful Arab costume-their turbaned heads and flowing garments, managing their little bark with the greatest tact, and putting on board our vessel the pilot—a fine, middle-aged Arab, as brown as a berry, and with a full black beard, who at once assumed the management, giving direction upon direction, till the signal was made for casting anchor, and our voyage was complete. Boats in great numbers were quickly around us; and, taking possession of one, we got our luggage cleared with all possible celerity. Loud was the clamour, and wild the scene. We had then a distance of nearly two miles ere we could get on shore; and when we fairly came to land, what a picture was presented. The oriental appearance of the city and of its population spoke for itself at once; and we felt that an African climate was about us. Throngs of half-naked Arabs, clamorous for employment as porters, stood around. The harsh guttural of the Arabic tongue sounded strangely in our ears. Asses-some saddled for riding, and others prepared to carry baggage, together with guides and servants proffering their services, all pressed upon us together, as we first set our feet on the shores of Egypt; while, somewhat in the background, a long string of camels, laden with timber, stones for building, and water skins, passed along, with their slow, dreamy, yet majestic step; and here and there the "feathery palm-trees" waved gracefully in the slightly moving breeze which swept over them from the desert. It was indeed a heart-stirring moment, when we first stepped ashore-in a strange land, and such a land as this, where every thing is a subject for the painter, and tends to realize to the mind all the orientalism which one has been accustomed to contemplate through the medium of books and pictures. It would have amused our friends in England, could they but have seen us on our arrival, with our baggage laid upon asses, guided by attendant Arab men and boys-a troop of them, all jealous of each other on account of the few piastres which were to be the price of the accommodation; the selected ones exulting-the rejected ones growling and fuming-and all going in uproarious procession through the narrow and squalid-looking streets and avenues of the Arab quarter, amidst crowds of the most picturesque figures that can be conceived-some gravely and silently smoking their long pipes-some squatting on the dust in the shade of the low mud-walled dwellings, in earnest conversation-some playing at games, and others carrying on their heads and crying various articles of small merchandize. Women were seen bearing their half-naked babes astride on their shoulders, and others riding on donkeys, which are the "hackney coaches" of Alexandria. Winding our way slowly through the overhung and confined streets, with a sense of entire novelty and strangeness, we reached at length the European Hotel, rejoicing at finding ourselves once more in a condition to enjoy rest and repose. Here ends the first stage of my pilgrimage. I scarcely know which is more delightful-the experience, or the recollection. Both have their peculiar charms. The former was transient; the latter will be permanent, so long as memory shall retain the power of calling up her visions of the past. CHAPTER II. EGYPT. ALEXANDRIA-BAZAARS-FEMALE COSTUME-POMPEY'S PILLAR CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE-ARAB CEMETERY-EGYPTIAN FUNERAL PROCESSION-TRAVELLING APPARATUS-MARRIAGE PROCESSION-MAHMOUDI CANAL-ARAB HORSEMEN- SPHYNX-THE CAMEL-CAMEL-RIDING. Ir was part of our original plan to have made an excursion in Upper Egypt, for the purpose of visiting those noble antiquities which have absorbed so much attention in late years; but an opinion expressed by Caviglia, at Paris, was confirmed by others at Alexandria-that the season was too far advanced to admit of our fulfilling this intention with safety and comfort. At Alexandria we resolved to make such a brief sojourn, as should enable us to get the best advice as to our route through the Arabian Desert, and to make some of the needful preparations for that expedition. I am therefore prepared to sketch only a few particulars in reference to that celebrated locality, now so faded, and shorn of its ancient splendour and importance. As I have less to do with Alexandria as it was, than as it is, I shall just follow the order of my journal. Our first visit was to the bazaars, which in oriental towns are the centre of all activity, and the scenes in which national F 66 ALEXANDRIA-BAZAARS. character is variously displayed. They are contained in close and confined streets, in the midst of which there is an indescribable admixture, and an incessant stir of all orders and classes-picturesque in the extreme; and to the European, unpractised in the thing, it is at first a matter of difficulty to make progress; for while he is striving to avoid a troop of donkeys and their obstreperous drivers, he is in great danger of being trampled under foot, by a string of heavily-laden camels unexpectedly turning a corner upon him, and, with their burdens slung on either side, occupying almost the entire width of the street. The Turks, Arabs, and Copts, are generally well behaved; and never, so far as I know, offer a gratuitous incivility to a stranger. I certainly never experienced any; and indeed, on one occasion, when an Arab, rapidly passing me, happened unintentionally to spit upon my coat, he seemed in the greatest confusion-stopped-bowed his head-took up a fold of his own garment, and deliberately removed the offensive contribution. The most touchy Englishman could not have been angry on such an occasion. The bazaars present every article of convenience suitable. to oriental notions; and indeed at Alexandria, most European wants may be well enough supplied. Bazaars for the sale of tobacco of various kinds, and in various forms for consumption, are found in all directions; and the smell of tobacco-smoke is the most familiar odour of the place. Everybody smokes, and at every hour of the day. The whole front of the bazaars is open, and has a floor raised about two or three feet above the level of the street. It is furnished with carpets and sometimes with cushions in the form of a dewan; and on these the purchaser is not unfrequently seated, while selecting the articles he wants, and agreeing-or rather disagreeing and haggling about the price; for every one who purchases at a Turkish or Arab bazaar must make up his mind to this, unless he would pay double the value of all he needs. The Arab traders are a stirring, active people-on the look out for customers, and prompt in attending to them. It is the reverse with the Turks. They will suffer you to stand and look about, and ALEXANDRIA-FEMALE COSTUME. 67 handle the various goods within reach, without rising from their usually recumbent posture, or putting their long pipes from their mouths. When you go so far as to express any particular want, they will slowly and almost unwillingly break in upon the half repose which they are enjoying, and place before you the required articles, apparently careless whether you purchase or not. Though there is a spirit of improvement manifesting itself in the external aspect of Alexandria-the effect of the Pasha's enterprising disposition; though, from the bay to the citadel, and thence throughout the public works, there are proofs of growing importance which cannot be overlooked; yet, were it not for her past history, there would be little to fix the attention of travellers accustomed to contemplate the splendour of European cities, under more enlightened governments. An air of poverty and sadness pervades this once glorious capital. The great admixture of Europeans with the native population, deprives the city of much of its oriental peculiarity; and in this respect, it reminded me somewhat of Malta, especially in the European quarter. The women, for the most past, go veiled about the streets, in the most secret manner; and often are so enveloped that all idea of form is lost. The upper part of the face is commonly covered with a kind of mask, made of some stiff material, and generally of a dark colour. It is fastened with a strip of leather, passing over the forehead to the nose, and has holes cut so as just to leave the sight unobstructed. The lower part of the face is concealed by a long conical-shaped bag or purse, pendant from the mask. Some of the women have the mask ornamented with coins strung together in rows, extending downwards from the forehead. Their usual dress out of doors, is either of white or blue cotton stuff, and consists of a sort of loose gown with wide sleeves, and another large piece of the same material in the form of a wide mantle, which serves to envelope the head, shoulders, and indeed the whole figure, when desirable. |