of the wings. Besides this, the village contains a Relief and Burgher church; the latter under the direction of a man, whose eloquence and learning entitle him to a more important charge.

This whole neighbourhood-fertile in agriculture, yields ample matter for the investigations of the antiquary: but our limits forbid us from entering farther on this extensive field.

On the Processes of Wine-making. By Dr MACCULLOCH, Woolwich. From Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society, No. VI.

AMONG the many important subjects to which the Horticultural Society have directed their attention, there is none which, both in a national and economical point of view, can come into competition with that of Dr Macculloch's Essay. The production, within ourselves, of a commodity which we have so long derived exclusively from abroad, would certainly be a most useful and patriotic achievement. Nor would the convenience be less, of obtaining at a cheaper rate, an article of which fashion has spread so widely the use, and of which the price has become so enormous. There are few, therefore, who will not heartily wish success to the laudable efforts of the writer: nor can we resist the opportunity of employing what means we possess to diffuse more widely the knowledge of his plans.

The object of Dr Macculloch is to reduce to regular principles an operation which has been hitherto a mere mechanical routine-a series of receipts founded upon no principle.

Dr Macculloch begins with analysing the constituent parts of the fruits commonly used for this purpose.

consideration, are malic acid, either in a state of purity, or one of combination with potash (a circumstance not yet perfectly ascertained); vegetable mucilage, or extractive matter; supertartrite of potash; sugar; water; the sweet principle; the colouring principle; tannin; super-oxalite of potash; and the principle of flavour. The proportions of these, vary much in different fruits, and it sometimes happens that one or more of them is entirely absent. In the white currant, for instance, the colouring sub. stance is often deficient, whilst it a bounds in the elder-berry and red grape. So the super-oxalat of potash is rarely found; and, on the contrary, those salts to which the tartarous, or malic acid appertain, are more fre quent. So likewise, the sugar is much less abundant than the sweet principle, which is indeed the general cause of the sweetness of the greater number of our fruits. The vegetable mucilage is, if any, the only principle whose presence is invariable; and this principle is one of the most essential in the fabrication of a vinous liquor, as we shall see hereafter. The main diversities of character, in the products of the various fruits, is owing to the varying proportions of the several ingredients which they contain. It is true, that difference of management may produce different effects; but no contrivance can give to the gooseberry the constituent elements of the grape, nor can any mode of procedure extract the flavour of champaigne from the juice of gooseberries, although many, who have not been much accustomed to the flavour of the foreign wine, have been deceived by that made from our humble fruit.

"Among the principles enumerated, tartar, water, sugar, the sweet principle, and the vegetable extract or mu cilage, are the most essential in the conversion of fruits into wine. Colour and flavour may be considered as

the

adventitious; and the principles which yield them are in nowise essential to process of wine-making. The effect produced by the super-oxalite of potash is unknown, as it has not been the subject of experiment.'

Tartar is considered as one of the objects most essential to fermentation, and as one the presence of which most strongly distinguishes the grape from other species of fruits. Dr M. has found the best effects from mixing Tartar with those native fruits from which wine is usually made.

The malic acid abounds. in all our native fruits, and its presence is considered as one of the most irremediable obstacles to the forming of these into perfect wines.

Sugar is the most essential of all the ingredients, since it is upon it that the strength of the liquor depends.Our fruits are eminently deficient in it-but this is a defect which can easily be remedied, by adding the produce of the sugar-cane.

Vegetable extract is supposed to be the leaven upon whose action the process of fermentation depends; or that by which the sugar is rendered capable of undergoing this process. It is therefore the ingredient for the production of which fruit is indispensable.

Colour and astringency are not essentials of wine, and may easily be supplied by artificial means.

Flavour is a principle so uncertain and fugacious, that it is difficult to establish any general principles respecting it. When the fermentation is perfect, the original flavour of the fruit is entirely obliterated. The only mode of communicating this principle is to throw in some portion towards the close of the fermentation.

Dr Macculloch observes, that the quality of the wine depends most essentially upon the proportions between the leaven and the sugar. If the former is deficient, a part of the sugar will remain unchanged, and sweet

wine will be produced. If, on the contrary, the leaven is in excess, the fermentation will be too great, and vinegar will be the result. Imperfect fermentation and consequent sweetness is the defect to which British wines are most liable. This can only be remedied by some mode of increasing the leaven. Dr M., however, deprecates the use of the yeast of beer, which communicates a bad flavour. If any leaven is necessary, it should be drawn from the lees of foreign wine, or from the fermentation of former parcels of domestic wine. The purpose, however, may be sufficiently answered by agitating it in the manner which is called breaking the head, thereby re-exciting the languid fermentation.

Besides sugar and leaven, tartar appears to form an important principle; and one of the greatest defects in domestic wines arises from no attempt having ever been made to supply it. The wine of the grape seems saturated with tartar, so that no precise limit seems assignable to its use.

Dr Macculloch has taken a very extensive survey of all the fruits used in this country for the purpose of making wine, with a view to ascertain their respective merits; and as this is so universally interesting a subject, we shall endeavour to give it in his own words:

The fruits chiefly in use are the quince, cherry, strawberry, sloe, elder-berry, damson, mulberry, black or bramble berry, raspberry, orange, lemon, gooseberry, and the three varieties of currant. Dried raisins, although not ranking among our fruits, are extensively used, and require also to be noticed.

'A wantonness of experiment seems to have, in some measure, led to this great and superfluous number of articles as the nominal bases of wines, although the practices have also been, in a great degree, founded on falsé

views of the real nature and objects of this manufacture. It is evident, on the principles already laid down, that when no peculiar and agreeable flavour follows the adoption of any individual fruit, it can have no legitimate claim. for use, beyond that which is founded on its several proportions of sugar, leaven, acid, colour or astringency. As the two last of these can be communicated with the greatest certainty by adventitious ingredients, it is bad policy to have recourse to weak expedients for the same, and particularly, if, for the sake of these minor objects, we must sacrifice others of greater importance.

Such also the sugar is, confessedly, and in all cases, an adventitious ingredient, capable of being proportioned with the greatest nicety, completely in our power, and of a moderate price, it is unnecessary to consider that ingredient in fruits, as the one which is to guide our choice. It is to the due admixture of acid, and of leaven (the fermenting principle), that we are chiefly to look for the causes which are to determine us in our selection. If a good flavour can be obtained from any fruit of our own growth, we have then the whole data which should rule our determinations. The object of price, is a consideration which will naturally be added to these more important ones.

The Quince appears to have usurped a place in the foregoing list, to which it properly has no title. Its similarity in principles to the apple and pear is sufficient to assure us, that its produce can only be a species of cyder, characterised, according to circumstances, by the astringency and flavour which distinguish it from these two fruits. Its price and rarity also increase the objections to its use.

"Vinous liquors, of no very particular character, may be made from the several varieties of Cherry; but the operator should be cautioned against the common practice of pressing the

kernels in quantity, as, however agreeable a slight flavour of the bitter may be, a taste amounting to bitterness is always unassimilating and injurious to the wine.

From the Strawberry, wines of agreeable quality, both dry and sweet, may be produced; but the peculiar flavour of the fruit is generally dissipated in the process. The cautions which I have given respecting flavour, will suffice to point out in what way that is most likely to be obtained.

'I make the same remark on the Raspberry, with this additional hint, that as very little in point of flavour or produce is gained by the use of these fruits, which are in most places of a high price, it behoves the operator to balance the advantages against the disadvantages, before he enters on the undertaking. A simple infusion of this fruit, in any flavourless currant wine, will, with greater cheapness and certainty, produce the desired taste.

"Having no experience in the Brambleberry or Mulberry, I am unable to say whether any flavour can be communicated by their use. The cheapness of the former is a recom mendation; and there is no doubt that they both contain the substances, leaven and acid, most essential for this purpose. They also afford what so few fruits do to the same degree, the colouring principle. In managing them, so as to derive the greatest advantages from their colour, it is necessary that the fermentation allowed to go on with the skins, until the colour is extracted, which will also be accompanied by a slight degree of astringency, which, at a certain period of ripeness, accompanies both these fruits.

'The Sloe and Damson are so associated in qualities, that nearly the same results are produced from both,

a bitterish and astringent liquor, capable of being converted into rough wine of a good character, care being taken duly to proportion the quantity

of

bark and scratch at the spot, and, on digging, a cluster of truffles is generally found.

On the Continent, truffles are much esteemed as an article of food. In Germany, they are gathered and sold in great numbers. It is remarked that they abound chiefly in those parts of the great forests that have at some former period been accidentally burnt down; and the truffle-gatherers have often been accused of firing the woods with the view of bettering their harvest. In Italy, truffles acquire a large size compared with those of Britain: instead of weighing two or three ounces, they perhaps weigh as many pounds. In place of dogs, the Italian peasantry sometimes avail themselves of the fine sense of smelling possessed by their pigs: turning them into the truffle-grounds, they watch their beginning to root keenly, and seize the prey.

Lightfoot in his Flora Scotica mentions, that truffles are found in the woods near Mignerney, in Glenlyon, Perthshire, in the greatest perfection in the autumn and winter months. The late distinguished Mr George Don, in trenching a part of his bo-. tanic garden at Forfar, fell in with several clusters. Three years ago, several detached specimens were observed in a bank at Bellevue, in the immediate neighbourhood of this city. It appears therefore that truffles, tho' perhaps not plentiful, are pretty widely distributed thro' Scotland; and if a demand were established in the large towns. it seems not unlikely that a very considerable supply might be obtained from different parts of the country.

But we ought not to be discouraged from attempting to cultivate them. We have even heard that a native of France, now residing in this place,

* It is much to be regretted that this admirable collection of hardy plants, particu

remarkable for the success with which he propagates champignons, has stated his readiness to undertake the culture of truffles, if he meet with suitable encouragement. The two plants differ very much in their habits of growth; but it is certainly possible to accommodate the soil and other circumstances to the peculiar nature of the fungus. It has been said, (and the opinion is alluded to by Dr Martyn in the new edition of the Gardener's Dictionary,) that the tubercles of trufes are analogous to the eyes of potatoes, and that they have been propagated, like potatoes, by means of cuts furnished with tubercles. It may, however, be suspected that the fragments thus planted contained ripe seeds. By means of these we cannot doubt that truffles may be propagated as well as mushrooms; for the wellknown direction to break down fullgrown mushrooms in the garden-pan before watering the mushroom-bed, is just equivalent to sowing mushroom seed. Truffles, we may remark, seem to delight in a mixture of clay and sand, and are generally found in woods or in shaded situations. CANONMILLS, Oct. 30. 1815.

}

N.

MEMOIRS OF THE PROGRESS OF MANUFACTURES, CHEMISTRY, SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS.

M. DOBEREINER of Jena, the same

gentleman who metallized carbon, has succeeded in seizing upon hydrogen in the metallic form. He gal vanizes water put in contact with mercury, and obtains at the positive pole oxygen; and at the negative pole, where the mercury is placed, instead of hydrogen, he obtains an amalgam consisting of this metal. We may knead this amalgam, and make it take different forms without its be

destroyed.