THE STROLL.

THE next morning, after an early breakfast, and afterwards writing a few letters, I sallied forth from beneath my archway, to enjoy the harmless liberty of looking about me; but although the city had not yet awakened either to business or to pleasure, and although from its streets being comparatively empty, I had full opportunity for observation, and even for contemplation, -I must own that, had I not known I was in Paris, I should not have been informed of the fact by my memory. For the picture had not only, by the chemical process of Time, been dissolved, but, excepting the old sky, which the artist probably felt he could not very much improve, he had re-painted and re-covered the whole of the canvas with new objects. For instance, with infinite labour, he had everywhere rubbed out that picturesque line of large, frail, creaky, cranky, crazylooking lanterns, which-suspended over the middle of every street, were lowered to be lighted-used always to be seen dangling over the roofs of the carriages that rolled beneath them; and in lieu thereof had substituted a double side series of beautiful gas lamps. Again, with great labour, he had not only scratched up and out that rude ill-constructed pavement of round stones for carriages, horses, and foot-passengers, which, inclining from the houses on each side, used-in the middle even of the gayest thoroughfares-to form a dirty gutter, which, in heavy rain, looked like a little trout stream; but instead of this concave surface he had substituted a beautiful convex road, bounded on each side by a white, clean foot-pavement. The frontage of the shops he had also completely altered; but the greatest liberty he had taken-and when a young enthusiastic artist has a brush in his hand, there is scarcely any liberty that he will not take-was, that he had actually filled up the foreground of his fine new picture of Paris, by crowding the streets with French people! whereas, all the time I saw the city, I can faithfully declare that the only human beings one ever looked at were Russians, Prussians. Austrians, Hanoverians, Belgians, British, and

wild-looking Cossacks, carrying, on starved little horses, lances so disproportionately long that they looked as if they had Quixotically come from an immense distance, and from an uncivilised region, to fight against the stars in the firmament of heaven; in short, a nation of brave men, who, singlehanded, had conquered the armies of almost every nation in Europe, were, from the insatiable ambition of one man, overwhelmed by the just and well-arranged union of half-a-dozen powerful nations, united together to wage war, not against France, but against the unrelenting enemy of mankind!

I was enjoying this mixture of feelings, and, without having reflected where I would go, or what I would do with myself, I was looking at everything at once, and especially at the variety of moving objects around me, when there drove. by a gaudy omnibus, on the back of which, among several other names, I observed inscribed the word "PASSY." It was the little village about a league off at which I had last been quartered; and although I had since scarcely ever thought of it, in one second I recollected the happy group among which I had lived an "enfant de famille." The good old people will long ago have vanished; the young ones will probably be grandmothers; however (waving my stick), I will, at all events, once again beat up their quarters."

In compliance with my signal, the 'bus stopped; and as it happened to be one of the few that carry passengers outside, in a few seconds I found myself seated by the coachman. "C'est la maison du Président,"* said he to me, pointing with his whip to the trees of the Elysée; thus evidently showing that before I had opened my mouth he was aware I was a raw stranger. As we were driving up the avenue of the Champs Elysées I had an opportunity-in the preparations for the approaching fête of the republic-of witnessing the latest improved method of making great men. summit of each of a series of lofty plaster pedestals, of elegant form, distant about 80 yards from each other, there had been inserted a sort of telegraphic signal, composed sometimes of a single beam, placed vertically, sometimes of a huge represen-` tation of the letter A, terminating in the letter I, sometimes of the letter X, sometimes of the letter Y, sometimes of the

*That is the house of the President.

On the

letter V. These pieces of stout timber were to form the legs, backbones, and occasionally extended arms of heroes or of statesmen; and as the artists had not all commenced together, and as some had evidently more assistance than others, the statues in different stages of progression, beautifully explained the secrets of their art. On one pedestal, excepting the wooden symbols I have described, appeared nothing but a pair of milk-white military jack-boots, about six inches higher than the top of the head of the workman who was making them. On the ground lay the gigantic head with mustachios, looking at his boots; in short, calmly watching all that was doing. On the summit of the wooden hieroglyphic on another pedestal I observed an orator's head, beneath which the artist was very cleverly arranging a quantity of straw to bolster out some ribs and a large stomach that lay on the earth beneath. On another pedestal the powerful head, arms, breast, covered with well-earned medals, crosses, &c., and back of a maréchal of France, suddenly ended in a sort of kilt of rushes, which the artist, with the assistance of ropes, cord, packthread, and large bags of white plaster, which hardened almost as fast as it was applied, was modelling with great success into the upper portion of a pair of magnificent pantaloons.

On all the statues, the drapery was very ingeniously and successfully created by swaddling the lofty statues in old pli able canvas, no sooner bent and tastefully adjusted into elegant folds, than it was saturated with liquid cement, which almost immediately gave not only solidity to the mass. but the appearance of having been sculptured out of stone.

Although in the fabrication of these various statues it was occasionally almost impossible to help smiling at the contrast between the work completed and in embryo, yet it may truly be said that the workmanship exceeded the materials. The attitudes of the several statues, as we passed them, appeared not only to be admirably devised, but to be executed with that fine taste and real talent which distinguish the French people, and which it is pleasing to observe all classes of their community are competent to appreciate. Indeed it was with gratification, astonishment, and profit. I often afterwards for a few moments listened to the criticisms and observations of men in blouses, who, although in

humble life, might, from their remarks have passed for brother artists of him who, unaware even of their presence, was intently modelling over their uplifted faces.

After receiving from my intelligent companion a few words of voluntary information on almost everything and everybody we passed, my attention was directed to the animals that were drawing us. They were a pair of small, powerful, short-legged, white entire horses, with thick crests and very small heads, somewhat resembling that of an Arab. They were as sleek in the coat, and as fleshy as moles; and although according to English notions they were altogether disproportioned to the long lofty carriage they were drawing up the inclined plain of the Champs Elysées, it appeared to follow them from goodwill almost of its own accord. In their harness they had plenty of room to work; could approach or recede sideways from the pole, as they felt disposed; and although, when necessary, they were guided with great precision, the reins, generally speaking, were dangling on their backs. Now and then, as we were jogging along, on the approach of another omnibus, carriage or cart, and occasionally for no apparent cause whatever, sometimes one and sometimes both of the little greys, would cock their ears, give a violent neigh, and in the same space of ground take about twice as many steps as before. Indeed, instead of being, as might be expected, tired to death of the Champs Elysées, they appeared as much pleased with everything that passed as I was. The coachman told me these horses belonged to a company, and that one of their principal stables was within a hundred yards of the Barrière de Neuilly we were then passing. He advised me to go and look at them; and accordingly, with many thanks bidding him adieu, I proceeded on foot along the boulevard on my left, for about a hundred yards, to a gate, at which I found a concierge in a white сар, of whom I inquired, as I had been directed by the coachman, for "le piqueur."*

"Entrez, monsieur !" she replied, "il est là en bas."

Proceeding into a large barrack-square, I was looking at innumerable sets of harness hanging beneath a long shed out

*The foreman.

Walk in, Sir! he is there below.

side a range of stables, when I was accosted by a well-dressed gentleman, with large mustachios, who asked me very civilly what was my business?

I at once told him my story, such as it was; to which he replied that no one could visit the establishment without an order, which, he added with a slight bow, "No doubt Monsieur would instantly obtain; and to assist me in doing so, he very kindly wrote in my memorandum book, "M. Moreau, Chastone, Administrateur-Général de l'Entreprise des Omnibus, Avenue des Champs Elysées, 68, de midi à quatre heures."*

As it was only seven o'clock, and as it appeared M. Moreau was to be invisible till twelve, I strolled to the grand Arc de Triomphe, ascended some steps, through a door, and then, proceeding upwards, walked round and round for a considerable time. When nearly at the top I entered a feeblylighted, low-looking prison, with a groined roof supported by six arches, four of which were closed by strong iron bars.

At each of the two ends of this dismal chamber there appeared a stout barrier of iron railings, and I was fancying that by some mistake I had got into a sort of cul-de-sac, when beneath the sixth arch I perceived a passage, and then, ascending for some time in total darkness, I at last arrived in the fresh, warm, open air, upon an exalted platform 150 feet in length by 23 in breadth, from which there suddenly flashed upon my eyes, or rather upon my mind, one of the most magnificent views I have ever beheld, the characteristic of which was that, like that from the top of the Calton Hill, at Edinburgh, it afforded a panorama of scenery of the most opposite description.

In front lay before me, towards the east, the broad, straight, macadamized road, boulevard, or, as it is more properly termed, 66 avenue," up which I had just been driven, terminating in the green trees of the gardens of the Tuileries. On each side of this great road there appeared expressly for foot passengers, a beautiful shaded space, in the middle of which was an asphalte path, broad enough for about six persons to walk abreast. foot-roads were dotted with pedestrians, the carriage-road spotted with equestrians, military waggons, carts, public as well as

The

* General-Superintendant of the Company of Omnibuses, No. 68, Avenue of the Champs Elysées. From 12 to 4 o'clock.