-does not afford much probability of the old dress being discontinued if the boys all have this feeling. Indeed the daily papers state that the Bavarian King of Greece is about to adopt the national costume, in his visit to Europe in search of a wife; and if the dress be equally comfortable, he will be quite right; for—with its embroidered vest, tight jacket and greaves, and loose snowy camese, similar to the Highland kilt-it is much handsomer than our Western habiliments cut and carved with such assiduous care to impede our activity and disguise our shape.

His Majesty, however, will not be able to show quite so small a waist as some of his subjects; who, from early habit, have reduced this part of the figure so much as, in some dandies, to render it almost capable of being spanned. In their scarlet jackets, they look like wasps.

CHAPTER IX.

PEIRÆUS.-TOMB OF THEMISTOCLES.-EGINA.-.

EPIDAURUS.

[7TH FEBRUARY.

HAVING reckoned with our host of the Munich Hotel, whose bill, notwithstanding the inferiority of our accommodation, was so exorbitant as to justify the proverbial prejudice against modern Greeks — we now, more prudent than on our arrival, sent for horses to convey us to the Peiræus.. But what animals to dignify with the name of horses! the driver of a costermonger's cart in England would have been ashamed (the only shame, perhaps, of which such folks are capable,) of sitting behind one of them; and they looked as if they could no

more reach the Peiræus than the top of Parnassus. Not having thought it necessary to provide ourselves with whips or spurs for so short a ride, we kicked and thumped their sides; but a slow walk was the utmost speed we could produce; and as far as regards bodily fatigue, we had infinitely better have walked on foot, and carried our luggage into the bargain. We were, however, overtaken by a party of English midshipmen returning from last night's ball, similarly mounted but differently armed, for they were provided with heavy English hunting-whips, with which - Ajaces flagelliferi - they astonished

the unfortunate hacks for the first time in their lives into a gallop. Ours, instigated by so novel an example, or fearing the same discipline, followed them at the same rate, and finished their five miles in less time than, I suppose, it has been performed since the Olympic Æra-twenty minutes at the outside. We felt that we were on the spot

where the trident of Neptune had given life to the horse.

We arrived in time to attend divine service on board H.M.S. Portland; after which, having visited the Medea, a magnificent steam frigate, we started with Captain Austin of the latter ship, who was so good as to be our guide-and an excellent guide he was-to the Munychia and Phaleron, which, with the Peiræus, formed the ancient triple seaport of Athens.

The heights above Peiræus bear traces of strong fortifications, the rock in some places having been hewn into walls; in others, the foundations of masonry still existed; but the days are gone by when the safety of Athens depended on her wooden walls. I fancy she had better, for the present at least, rely on ours. By-andby it may be different; and the Western nations, who are now so anxious to create kingdoms in the Levant, may find their policy more generous than prudent.

We met the Greek pilot of the Portland, with a young and pretty wife, whom he had just married: he made inquiries of the Captain, whether the two men-of-war were really to sail on the morrow. On being assured that they were, the old man, for such he comparatively was, turned to his young bride, and gave her such a languishing disconsolate look, that we could scarce refrain from a smile, especially as the lady seemed by no means to participate in his sorrow. It did not seem to us that she was likely to call her absent spouse ποθεινότατον.

Having been joined by Captain Price of the Portland, we embarked in his boat, and rowed across to the entrance of the harbour, where we saw a pier had been carried out under water to narrow the entrance; the same had been done on the other side.

On one of these piers, raised at the extremity above the water, formerly stood