CHAPTER XI.

Government Expeditions.

Great Expedition planned under Tuckey and Peddie-Captain Tuckey reaches the Congo-Difficulties encountered-Great Sickness-Disastrous Issue-Major Peddie arrives at Kakundy-His Death-Captain Campbell advances into the Foulah Territory-Obliged to return-His Death-GrayLaing-Ritchie and Lyon-Death of Ritchie.

THE fate of Park, notwithstanding the deep regret it excited in England and throughout Europe, presented nothing which could destroy the hope of future success; for the chief cause of failure could be easily traced to the precipitation into which he had been betrayed by a too ardent enthusiasm. Nor had any thing been discovered adverse to the hypothesis that identified the Niger with the Congo, which still retained a strong hold on the public mind. The views of government and of the nation on this subject were entirely in unison. It was therefore determined that an expedition on a large scale should be fitted out, divided into two portions, one to descend the Niger and the other to ascend the Congo; which two parties, it was fondly hoped, would effect a triumphant meeting in the middle of the great stream they were sent to explore. This resolution was loudly applauded; and never perhaps did an armament, expected to achieve the most splendid victories, excite deeper interest than the one now projected, which seemed destined to triumph over the darkness that had so long enveloped the vast interior of Africa. The expedition to the Congo was intrusted to Captain

Tuckey, an officer of merit and varied services, who had published several works connected with geography and navigation. Besides a crew of about fifty, including marines and mechanics, he was accompanied by Mr Smith, an eminent botanist, who likewise possessed some knowledge of geology; Mr Cranch, a self-taught but able zoologist; Mr Tudor, a good comparative anatomist; Mr Lockhart, a gardener from Kew; and Mr Galwey, an intelligent person who volunteered to join the party. They sailed from Deptford on the 16th February 1816, and reached Malemba on the 30th June, where they met with a cordial reception from the mafook, or king's merchant, in the belief that they were come to make up a cargo of slaves. The chiefs, on being reluctantly convinced of the contrary, burst into the most furious invectives against the crowned heads of Europe, particularly our own most gracious sovereign, whom they denominated "the Devil," imputing chiefly to him the stop put to this odious but lucrative traffic. A few days brought the English into the channel of the Congo; which, to their great disappointment, instead of exhibiting the immense size they had been taught to expect, scarcely appeared a river of the second class. The stream, it is true, was then at the lowest, but the depth being still more than 150 fathoms, it was impossible to estimate the mass of water which it might convey to the ocean. The banks were swampy, overgrown with mangrovetrees; and the profound silence and repose of these extensive forests made a solemn impression upon the mind. At Embomma, the emporium of this district, much interest was excited by the discovery that a negro officiating as cook's mate was a prince of the blood. He was welcomed with rapture by his father, and with a general rejoicing by the whole village. The young savage was soon arrayed in full African pomp, having on an embroidered coat very much tarnished, a silk sash, and a black glazed hat surmounted by an enormous feather. Captain Tuckey was introduced to the chenoo, or hereditary chief, who, with his huge gilt buttons,

stockings of pink sarcenet, red half-boots, and highcrowned embroidered hat, reminded him of punch in a puppet-show. All attempts to convey to this sage prince any idea of the objects of the expedition proved vain. The terms which express science and an enlightened curiosity did not excite in his mind a single idea, and he rang continual changes on the questions," Are you come to trade?" and, "Are you come to make war ?"unable to conjecture any other motive. At length, having received a solemn declaration that there was no intention to wage hostilities, he sealed peace by the acceptance of a large present of brandy.

After sailing between ridges of high rocky hills, the expedition came to the Yellala, or Great Cataract; and here they met with a second disappointment. Instead of another Niagara, which general report had led them to expect, they saw only "a comparative brook bubbling over its stony bed." The cascade appears to be occasioned merely by masses of granite, fragments of which have fallen down and blocked up the stream. Yet this obstruction rendered it quite impossible for the boats to pass; nor could they be carried across the precipices and deep ravines by which the country was intersected. The discoverers were therefore obliged to proceed by land through this difficult region, which, without a guide on whom they could rely, was attended with overwhelming toil. Cooloo, Inga, and Mavoonda, the principal villages, were separated by wide intervals, which often placed the travellers under the necessity of sleeping in the open air. At length the country improved and became more level, the river widened, and the obstacles to its navigation gradually disappeared; but just as the enterprise began to assume a prosperous aspect, indications of its fatal termination were already perceptible. The health of the party was rapidly giving way under the effects of fatigue, as well as the malignant influence of an atmosphere at once moist and burning. Tudor, Cranch, and Galwey, were successively obliged to return to the ship; and Captain Tuckey, after struggling some time against

the increasing pressure of disease and exhaustion, as well as the accumulating difficulties of the expedition, saw the necessity of putting a stop to its farther progress. Mr Smith at first expressed deep disappointment at this resolution, but soon became so ill that he could scarcely be conveyed to the vessel. On reaching it, a sad scene awaited the survivors: Cranch, Tudor, and Galwey were no more; they had sunk, one after another, under the weight of disease. Mr Smith soon shared their fate; and Tuckey himself, on the 4th October, added one more to the number of deaths, without having suffered the usual attack of fever. He had been exhausted by constant depression and mental anxiety.

From this unhappy expedition, however, some information was obtained respecting a part of Africa not visited for several centuries. No trace indeed was seen of the great kingdoms, or of the cities and armies described by the Portuguese missionaries; so that, though the interior may not improbably be more populous than the banks of the river, there must, in these pious narratives, have been much exaggeration. The largest towns, or rather villages, did not contain above 100 houses, with 500 or 600 inhabitants. They were governed by chenoos, with a power nearly absolute, and having mafooks under them, who were chiefly employed in the collection of revenue. The people were merry, idle, good-humoured, hospitable, and liberal, with rather an innocent and agreeable expression of countenance. The greatest blemish in their character appeared in the treatment of the female sex, on whom they devolved all the laborious duties of life, even more exclusively than is usual among negro tribes; holding their virtue also in such slender esteem, that the greatest chiefs made it an object of traffic. Upon this head, however, they have evidently learned much evil from their intercourse with Europeans; a remark applicable not only to the shores of Africa, but also to the more interesting settlements in the South Sea.

Meantime the other section of the expedition under Major Peddie, whose instructions led him to descend the

Niger, arrived at the mouth of the Senegal. Instead of the beaten track along the banks of that river, or of the Gambia, he preferred the route through the country of the Foulahs, which, though nearer, was more difficult and less explored. On the 17th November 1816, he sailed from the Senegal, and on 14th December, the party, consisting of 100 men and 200 animals, landed at Kakundy, on the Rio Nunez; but, before they could begin their march, the major was attacked with fever and died. Captain Campbell, on whom the command now devolved, proceeded in the line proposed till he arrived at a small river called the Panietta, on the frontier of the Foulah territory. By this time many of the beasts of burden had perished, and great difficulty was found in obtaining a sufficient quantity of provisions. The King of the Foulahs, on being asked for permission to pass through his territories, seemed alarmed at hearing of so large a body of foreigners about to enter his country. He contrived, under various pretexts, to detain them on the frontier four months, during which their stock of food and clothing gradually diminished, while they were suffering all the evils that arise from a sickly climate and a scanty supply of necessaries. At length their situation became such as to place them under the absolute necessity of returning; and all their animals being dead it was necessary to hire the natives to carry their baggage,— an expedient which gave occasion to frequent pillage. They reached Kakundy with the loss only of Mr Kummer the naturalist; but Captain Campbell, overcome by sickness and exertion, died two days after, on the 13th of June 1817. The superintendence was then transferred to Lieutenant Stokoe, a spirited young naval officer, who had joined the expedition as a volunteer. He formed a new scheme for proceeding into the interior; but unhappily he also sunk under the effects of the climate and the fatigues of the journey.

A sentence of death now seemed pronounced against all who should attempt to penetrate the African continent; and yet there were still daring spirits who did not shrink