in houses and cultivate the ground; yet they are perhaps the only native Africans who have letters and an alphabet, which they inscribe, not on books and parchments indeed, but on the dark rocks that chequer the surface of their territory; and, in places where they have long resided, every stone is seen covered with their writings. The accompanying plate represents a Tuarick on his camel, with a male and female Tibboo standing beside him.

Bilma, the capital of the Tibboos, was found a mean town with walls of earth, but surrounded by numerous lakes containing the purest salt, the most valuable of all articles for the commerce of Soudan. The inhabitants, however, though deeply mortified, dare not prevent their powerful neighbours from lading their caravans with it, and underselling them in all the markets. About a mile beyond the town was a fine spring, spreading around, and forming a little circle of the richest verdure; and this was

the last appearance of vegetable life the travellers were to see in a march of thirteen days. In these wilds, the constant drift causes hills to rise or disappear in a night; and as all traces of a road are soon obliterated, the eye is guided only by certain rocks which are seen at intervals amid the waste. Sometimes the sand is formed into hills with very steep sides, from twenty to sixty feet high. Down these the camels are made to slide; and can only be kept steady by the driver hanging with all his weight on the tail, otherwise they would tumble forward, and throw the load over their heads. "Tremendously dreary are these marches; as far as the eye can reach, billows of sand bound the prospect." In a high wind volumes of this substance darkened the air, through which it was sometimes impossible to pass.

After a fortnight spent in the Desert, the expedition saw symptoms of a return to the region of life. Scattered spots of thin herbage appeared; little valleys watered by springs were filled with the shrub called suag, on which grew delicate berries; small herds of gazelles fed in these retreats; even the droves of hyenas indicated the revival of animal nature. As they advanced, the dales became more gay and verdant; and the creeping vines of the colocynth in full bloom, with the red flowers of the kossom, converted many of these spots into a little Arcadia. The freshness of the air, with the melody of the birds among the creeping plants whose flowers diffused an aromatic odour, formed a delightful contrast to the desolate region just passed. Here again were found Tibboos of the Gunda tribe, a more alert and active people than the former; the men uglier, the girls handsomer and more delicately formed. This sept have about 5000 camels, on whose milk alone they support themselves during half the year; the little crop of gussub and millet being too precious for their horses, they are fed on milk, either sweet or sour, which keeps them at all times in the highest health and condition. The chief, Mina Tahr, or the Black Bird, was presented by Boo Khalloom with a coarse scarlet burnouse and a

tawdry silk caftan: these paltry dresses, being the finest that had ever invested the person of this chieftain, threw him into ecstasies of delight, which he continued for hours to testify by joyful shouts and high leaps into the air. Major Denham's watch singularly delighted him; but solely, as soon appeared, from the pleasure of seeing his own person in the bright metallic case; so that a very small mirror was deemed still more precious.

In this approach to the territory of Soudan our travellers began to witness the exercise of mutual plunder between their mercantile escort and the natives. Every animal which straggled from the main body was instantly carried off; even a dog had been eaten up, and only the bones left. A herald, handsomely equipped, who had been sent forward to the Sultan of Bornou, was found stripped, and tied naked to a tree. On the other hand, no sooner did the caravan come in view of any village than the inhabitants were descried on the plain beyond in full flight with all their effects. The Arabs pursued in indignation only, as they pretended, at not being allowed to purchase what they wanted; but the conduct of the poor natives was evidently the result of long experience; and Major Denham saw executed on one party the most rapid process of depredation he ever witnessed. In a few seconds the camels were eased of their loads, and the poor women and girls deprived of all their clothes. Boo Khalloom, on this and other occasions, interposed, and insisted on restitution; but whether he would have done so without the urgent remonstrances of the English appears doubtful.

The expedition, now advancing rapidly, entered Kanem, the most northern province of Bornou, and soon arrived at Lari, a town of 2000 inhabitants, composed of clusters of rush-huts, conical at top, and looking like well-thatched corn-stacks. This place formed a remarkable stage in their progress; for, from the rising ground in front of it was seen the boundless expanse of the great interior sea of Africa, the Lake Tchad, "glowing with the golden rays of the sun." Major Denham, who saw here the key to his grand scheme of discovery, hastened

to the shores of this mighty water. These were darkened with the varied and beautiful plumage of ducks, geese, pelicans, and cranes four or five feet in height, immense spoonbills of snowy whiteness, yellow-legged plovers, with numerous unknown waterfowl, sporting around and quietly feeding at half pistol-shot. The major felt reluctant to invade the profound tranquillity of these feathered tribes, and betray the confidence with which they received him; but at length, overcoming his scruples, he took up his gun, and soon filled a large basket. It was evident, that remarkable changes in the bed of the Tchad had recently taken place; for, though this was not the rainy season, long stalks of gussub were growing amid the waters on ground formerly dry.

The caravan now marched along the shores of the lake, and arrived in two days at Woodie, a large town, the first which was found thoroughly negro. The inhabitants lived in sluggish plenty on the produce of a fertile country, without any attempt to enjoy either elegancies or luxuries. It was resolved that the company should pause here, till a messenger could be sent forward to obtain for them an invitation, or permission, to present themselves before the Sheik of Bornou; the political state of whose country was at this time somewhat singular. Twenty years before, it had been overrun and completely conquered with dreadful devastation by the Fellatas, a western people, to whose empire it seemed to be finally annexed. There still remained, however, a patriotic spirit in the people which spurned a foreign yoke. The present sheik, a native of Kanem, of humble birth but of superior talents and energy, rallied round him a band. of bold spearmen, and, animating them by a pretended vision of the prophet, hoisted the green flag, and attacked the invaders. His success was such, that in ten months the enemy were entirely driven out of Bornou, which they had never since re-entered, though desultory hostilities were still carried on. This fortunate leader, idolized by his army, was now the real master of the country; yet the reverence of the nation for their ancient line of

K