CHAPTER XV.

Laird and Oldfield—Allen-Davidson.

Plan of Mr Laird's Expedition-Voyage to the Niger-Ascent to Eboe-Dreadful Sickness and Mortality-Attempts to ascend the River-Mr Laird proceeds to Funda-Adventures there, and Departure-Description of that City-Mr Oldfield ascends the Tchadda-Visits Rabba-Its Description-Descends the River-Death of Lander-Return to EnglandMr Allen's Theory respecting the Yeou and Tchadda-Mr Davidson's Expedition-Residence at Morocco-Journey to Wadnoon-His Murder-Accounts respecting Timbuctoo.

THE information supplied by the Landers established the fact that the Niger is a stream of the first magnitude, opening from the ocean upwards a broad navigable channel into the interior of fertile and populous regions, and connected with tributaries almost as large as itself. Such tidings could not but excite the characteristic enterprise of British merchants. At Liverpool, accordingly, a body of gentlemen, at the head of whom was Mr Macgregor Laird, formed a company with the view of turning the recent discoveries to some practical advantage. They declared, we believe with truth, that commerce, though of course an essential, was by no means their only object. They hoped also to aid in suppressing the slave-trade, in introducing true religion, civilisation, and humanizing influences, among nations whose barbarism had hitherto been only heightened by European connexion.

Steam-navigation presented an obvious resource for overcoming the obstacles which occur in the rivers of Africa. Two iron steamers were therefore constructed,

the Quorra of forty and the Alburkah of sixteen horse power, with crews of twenty-six and fourteen men respectively: while the Columbine, a sailing vessel of 200 tons, carried out goods. Mr Lander readily accepted an invitation to join the party, and they were also accompanied by Lieutenant Allen of the navy, whom the admiralty appointed to survey the river; while Dr Briggs and Mr Oldfield went as medical attendants.

The expedition sailed from Liverpool on the 19th July 1832, and proceeded direct for Port Praya in the Cape de Verd Islands, where they arrived on the 17th August. They then touched successively at Sierra Leone and the American settlement of Monrovia, engaging on this coast a number of Kroomen, a race remarkable for their activity and skill in the management of boats. They afterwards paid visits to the Dutch colony at Axim and to Cape Coast Castle, and on the 16th October anchored near the mouth of the river Nun. The effects of the climate were already painfully perceptible, so that in two or three days they lost Captain Harries and two seamen of the Columbine. Ten days were employed in preparations, during which they were attended by the Kings Boy and Forday, who showed a profusion ofcivilities.

On the 26th, having got under way, they began to explore a passage through the narrow channels. The country on both sides of the river appeared one extensive swamp, covered with mangrove, cabbage, and palm trees; whence the fen-damp rose in the morning, cold and clammy, like the smoke of a wet wood fire. The natives were very unhealthy, partly owing to their coarse diet and to an excessive indulgence in spirits; yet the only effect felt from the climate was a tendency to grow extremely fat, which operated even while consuming only half the usual quantity of victuals. On the 1st November, Lander, who had gone somewhat ahead, intimated the danger of an attack from an Eboe village; and Mr Laird soon after saw the whole right bank in a blaze of musketry. The Quorra was presently put in motion, and placed abreast of the town. The fire ceased during

the night, but was recommenced in the morning out of the bush by enemies almost invisible. It was soon silenced by a discharge from the vessel, and the English then landed, and burned the houses; but as they were returning, the natives appeared again, and renewed the fire with loud yells, so that the party had some difficulty in re-embarking. This attack was found to have arisen from a misunderstanding caused by the discharge of a signal-gun; though it seems to be acknowledged that the inhabitants of the hostile village bear very bad characters. The population as far as Eboe was not reckoned to exceed four thousand adults, who were in the most degraded and demoralized state. The only produce of their country was palm-oil, collected in gourds of two or four gallons, which could be procured in any quantity.

On arriving at Eboe, they met a cordial reception from the king, who is described as tall in his person, with a pleasing countenance, and agreeable manners. Six faces, visible through the doorway, were understood to be his favourite wives. Here, too, was King Boy, who, they observed, never spoke to the other sovereign without falling on his knees and beating his head on the ground. On being asked the reason of such humiliation, he said: "King Obie too much palm-oil, King Boy too little." He was in high spirits, having just purchased a wife thirteen years of age, who, however, he declared with a sigh "would not be fat enough for two moons yet,” though she already weighed fourteen stone. She and three others softly ejaculated 66 rum and "tabac," which were administered to them in a canoe by the ship's side.

وو

On the 9th November, the party left Eboe, and were proceeding favourably, when on the 11th fever made its appearance, and on the following day Mr Laird felt its symptoms; throbbing headach, burning pain in the feet and hands, deadly sickness at the stomach, with a sudden prostration of strength. The disease daily spread more widely, till, by the 24th, the Quorra had lost thirteen men and the Alburkah two. They were struck

with an apprehension that all would perish together, and not one return to relate the catastrophe; but the malady then somewhat abated. This dreadful distemper is ascribed to the close air on a narrow winding river, where a horrid stench issued from the surrounding swamps. The writer considers it as having been aggravated by the monotony of the scene, and the absence of all excitement, even that of danger. He recommends constant employment, music, and even a temporary increase in the allowance of spirits, to support the sinking energies. It seems singular that the voyage to Attah, a distance of about three hundred miles, should have occupied a month, when a good steamer, it might be presumed, could have accomplished it in a few days.

The transactions with the King of Attah were very unsatisfactory; and his brother, with whom they endeavoured to treat for ivory and other goods, ended every discussion with the angry query, "Why wont you take men?" His majesty indeed was seen performing certain ceremonies, in which persons fantastically dressed used expressive gestures, and threw alligators' flesh into the water, hoping thereby to prevent the strangers from ascending; but as he did not oppose any human obstructions, they proceeded without difficulty. The river now assumed a delightful appearance, bordered by hills with flat summits; beyond which appeared in the distance the bold range of the Kong mountains. The sick began to recover, and the convalescents to gain strength. In approaching the confluence of the Tchadda, the Niger presented itself as "an immense river about 3000 yards wide, flowing majestically between its banks, which rose gradually to a considerable height, and were studded with clumps of trees and brushwood, giving them the appearance of a gentleman's park; while the smoke rising from different towns on its banks, and the number of canoes floating on its bosom, gave it an aspect of security and peace far beyond any African scene I had yet witnessed." The prospect of trade, however, did not correspond with Mr Lander's report. Ivory was scarce and dear, and

the indigo so dirty as not to be worth its freight home. The stream became now very shallow, and on the 22d December the Quorra struck first on one sandbank, and then on another; and, after a succession of such accidents, it was found necessary to house her, and await the rise caused by the rainy season. A convenient situation was found on an adjacent hill for depositing the goods. The table-lands were very extensive, one of them containing four towns; and the hill-sides were so steep as completely to secure them against an enemy. Lander endeavoured to penetrate upwards in the Alburkah to Rabba and Boussa, but soon discovered that the depth of water was insufficient for his purpose. Condemned to a gloomy and monotonous life, Mr Laird again suffered under ague, and was deeply affected by the death of Dr Briggs, whose society had been his chief consolation. He now, therefore, determined to ascend the Tchadda to Funda, long known as the chief city in this part of Africa; but the entrance was so obstructed by sandbanks, that the boat could proceed only through a creek, which, two miles above, traverses its delta. The main stream, thus attained, was found two fathoms deep, and flowing rapidly. After a tedious navigation of seven days, during which he passed a considerable number of villages, he reached Yimmaha, the port of Funda, about thirty miles distant. The most unfavourable intelligence was here received respecting the king, who was said to have poisoned two brothers, beheaded a third, while a fourth, to escape his cruelty, had committed suicide: it was added that his conduct to merchants was most inhuman and oppressive. Mr Laird, however, trusting that these reports were exaggerated, did not allow himself to be deterred. He despatched a message, in reply to which, after some delay, eighteen horsemen from the king came to wait upon him; they bent down, put his foot on their heads, and threw dust over their persons. Their palaver imported, that the monarch was ready to receive him, and had sent meantime a present of goats and yams. Vain attempts were made to procure bearers, the natives