About 1569, the Portuguese made two vigorous attempts, under Nunez Barreto and Vasco Fernandez, to advance into the country behind Mozambique, chiefly with the view of reaching the gold mines, the produce of which was brought in considerable quantities down the Zambezi to Sofala. They penetrated a considerable way up the river, on the banks of which they erected the forts of Sena and Tete. Its upper course was overhung by steep and precipitous rocks belonging to the mountainous range of Lupata, which here crosses its channel. At length they arrived at Zimbao, the capital of Motapa, and even at the mines of Manica; but, instead of the expected abundance of the precious metal, they found that, as in other parts of Africa, it was laboriously extracted in small quantities from the extraneous substances in which it is embedded. On this expedition they frequently encountered the natives, who were always beaten; but they were so harassed by long marches and scarcity of provisions, that they returned in a very exhausted state, without establishing any permanent dominion over that vast region.

As the energy of the Portuguese government declined, its sway over these colonies was reduced within limits which always became narrower; and in 1631, the people of Mombaza rose, massacred the settlers, and re-established their independence. They have been successively deprived of all their possessions northwards of Mozambique. That city, which was visited by Mr Salt in 1809, and Captain Owen in 1823, during his survey of the eastern coast of Africa, is represented as much decayed, though still containing many lofty and well built houses. The harbour is safe, formed by three coral islands, on one of which the town itself stands. It is defended by a large quadrangular fort, mounting eighty cannon and garrisoned by 200 negro soldiers, which, if the guns were well served, would effectually command the entrance, the situation being judiciously chosen. The governor, having a very small salary, is obliged to add to his income by merchandise; yet he contrives to main

tain in his establishment a portion of that pomp which once distinguished the viceroys of Eastern Africa. The entertainment of tea, which is open every evening to all the respectable inhabitants, is set out in a service of pure gold, and the negroes in attendance are loaded with ornaments of that metal. The commerce consists only of slaves, with a little ivory and gold. Quillimane, at the mouth of the Zambezi, is now a greater mart for the first article, and is visited annually by about a dozen vessels from Rio Janeiro, which return with 400 or 500 captives cach. It contains 2800 inhabitants, chiefly in the condition of bondmen. Inhamban, in a more salubrious site, carries on the same trade on a smaller scale; but Sofala, notwithstanding its great name, exhibits now only a miserable fort, protecting a few mud-huts.

In 1824, a party connected with Captain Owen's expedition, consisting of Lieutenant Browne, Mr Forbes, and Mr Kilpatrick assistant-surgeon, with two black servants, undertook to ascend and explore the Zambezi. After proceeding eight miles, they emerged from the mangrove swamps, and sailed amid groves of cocoa-nut and orange trees: and having accomplished about fortyseven miles, though only thirty-two in direct distance, they became involved in an archipelago of islets, the channels between which were so shallow, that they were obliged to travel some space by land, and then re-embark. At Chapongo they found a Portuguese station, commanded by a lady named Donna Pascoa d'Almeyda, who had no troops except a small negro militia, who submitted to her authority. She lived, however, in great pomp, and gave the strangers a cordial welcome. In ascending they saw a country tolerably well cultivated, but tame and uninteresting, till, in approaching Sena, they beheld the bold and picturesque outline of the mountains of Yemale. Before arriving, however, they had the affliction to lose Mr Forbes, a young man of great promise, who fell a victim to the climate. At Sena they had the satisfaction of again meeting their Chapongo hostess. This place is the capital of a Portuguese territory, estimated

to contain 3600 leagues, fertile and abounding in various resources, but the people being destitute of industry and enterprise, it is neglected and ill cultivated. Those of Tete, about sixty leagues higher, were reported to be much more active, cultivating wheat, vegetables, sugar, coffee, and rice; while its situation, on the side of a mountain, was very salubrious. The commandant received them coldly, and the priest sought only to obtain money from them. This treatment aggravated their exhaustion of body and mind, under which Mr Browne, after having nearly lost his faculties, finally sunk. Kilpatrick then became reckless and desponding, and, seeking relief in the use of spirits, soon shared the fate of his two companions. There remained of the unfortunate expedition only the two black servants, from whom Donna Pascoa endeavoured to extract the little money they had; but they steadily resisted, and having with difficulty effected their escape, after many perils reached Quillimane.

Captain Owen, in his farther survey of this coast, was every where struck with the remains of former wealth and civilisation, strongly contrasted with its present poverty and barbarism. The Arabs, who once made it the seat of an active trade, are closely pressed by the Galla and other barbarous tribes, who have become masters of the whole of the interior, and leave to them little more than the islands on which their cities are built. On the sea-side, they can scarcely escape subjection to the Imam of Muscat, whose mild and protecting government, indeed, is perhaps the best they can expect. The centre of his power is in the insular territory of Zanzibar, which he has rendered the most flourishing spot and chief emporium of this part of the continent. Dr Ruschenberger states it to contain 150,000 inhabitants, and to yield a revenue of 110,000 dollars. According to M. Albrand, the great body of the people are Moors, whom he has completely reconciled to his government. The trade is carried on by about 200 Banians; and there are 15,000 slaves, who are very mildly treated.

The sugar-cane, clove, and nutmeg trees, have been introduced, but as yet with doubtful success. On the opposite coast, this prince holds control over a miserable village, scarce visited or known, which occupies the site of the once-famed emporium of Quiloa. There are still some interesting remains of the walls bosomed in trees, and the harbour is extremely fine. Mombaza, on a small island surrounded by coral reefs, has a still more perfect harbour, and its fort, though dilapidated, might be rendered impregnable. It now defends itself with difficulty against the imam, whose fleet Captain Owen found closely blockading it. The citizens had hoisted the English flag, and earnestly solicited permission to place themselves under its protection. He promised to transmit their application, and prevailed upon the commander of the besieging force to withdraw; but he had the mortification to learn, that as soon as the danger was past, all their inclination for British sovereignty vanished, and they showed little disposition to fulfil their engagements.

Patta, farther to the north, was attacked in 1817 by the imam, and captured after a brave resistance. Though fallen from its former importance, it still has an active traffic carried on by means of those long boats called dows. The Portuguese castle remains, though now in a very ruinous condition. Much of the trade has been transferred to Lamoo, a larger town, containing 5000 inhabitants, and defended by a modern fort. Mukdeesha, called often Magadoxo, is also a place of some importance, and mistress of a considerable territory. Being built of stone, and adorned with four minarets, it makes an imposing appearance from the sea; but the interior, as elsewhere, is composed only of thatched huts. This place appears still to hold out against the Arab chief. Melinda (or Maleenda) is now entirely possessed by the Galla, through dread of whom no one dares to approach its coast.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Social Condition of Africa.

Distinction between Native and Foreign Tribes-NativesAgriculture Manufactures-Internal Trade-Exports and Imports between Great Britain and Western AfricaDomestic Accommodation-Intellectual Character-Superstitions-War and Slavery-Amiable Features-Forms of Government-Foreign Races - Mohammedan ConvertsEuropean Colonization-Cape of Good Hope-Albany District-Sierra Leone-Fernando Po-Proposed Settlements on the Niger-Liberia-Early Difficulties-Present Condition of the Colony.

HAVING commenced this work by a general survey of Africa as it came from Nature's hand, we shall conclude by giving a rapid sketch of the changes made by man, the societies formed on its immense surface; its arts, its industry, its social and moral institutions; and noticing, finally, the attempts of Britain and the United States to establish colonies within its borders.

A special distinction must be made in the outset between the native inhabitants and the several foreign races from Arabia and other Asiatic countries, by whom a very large portion of it has been occupied. This distinction we shall rest, not upon supposed resemblances of form and figure, or faint analogies between the language of distant nations, but upon the introduction, within the period of authentic history, of a people, manners, and religion, belonging to another continent. The changes now mentioned were effected, in a great measure, by the inroads of the Arabs or Saracens, and afterwards by the conquests of the Turks,-events which