towards the sea coast off Marshland, by embanking; especially in the parishes of Terrington and Clenchwarton, where at one time Capt. Bentinck, at a considerable expense, took in nine hundred acres of salt marsh, now rendered arable by the perseverance and public spirit of that gentleman. The principal outfall of the several cuts which drain the Fen lands of the great Bedford Level, being at Lynn, through the present channel of the river Ouse which empties itself into the bay, called METARIS ESTUARIUM, the preservation of this outfall and navigation has been the primary object of the commissioners of the "Corporation of Bedford Level." The country, on the eastern side of Lynn, abounds with good springs, from which the town is plentifully supplied with excellent water: but in Marshland and other parts, it is with no small difliculty that water can be procured for the cattle in very dry seasons. Many parts of the Fens abound with a remarkable species of reeds, which appear in summer, at some distance, like extensive fields of corn. In autumn, and the approach of winter, they are resorted to by innumerable flocks of starlings, which often in their flight darken the air; myriads of them are destroyed, and become a considerable article of food in the latter part of the year. The reeds that harbour these birds constitute durable and neat thatch for houses, and are said to last from thirty to forty years. Thatching is executed in this country in a style altogether superior to many other places. The soil of Marshland is for the most part very good, but no where more so than in that notable tract called the Smeth, which has been long celebrated for its uncommon fertility. These parts have long been famous for great numbers of decoys, from which various numbers of aquatic fowls, notwithstanding their breed is much decreased, are still sent to the London markets.

a very

Marshland comprehends sixteen parishes; viz.-Emneth, Walsoken, West Walton, Walpole St. Andrew's, Walpole St. Peter's, Terrington St. Clement's, Terrington St. John's, Clenchwarton, N. and W. Lynn, Tilney All Saints, Tilney St. Lawrence, Islington cum Tilney, Wiggenhall St. Mary's, Wiggenhall St. German's, and Wiggenhall St. Mary Magdalen. After passing from Marshland to the eastern side of the Ouse, the country begins to exhibit a very different appearance. The surface now ceases to be flat, a light

sandy soil soon presents itself, and the land becomes higher, and comparatively hilly, as well as in general much less fertile and productive than in Marshland; and the process of agriculture, as well as the implements, differ materially.

ANMER. Thirty-four miles. St. Mary. P. 122.—Is situate about two miles west of Houghton hall and plantations, four miles south-east from Snettisham, and eleven northeast from Lynn. Orgar, a Saxon freeman, was the principal lord of this village before the time of the conquest, but being deprived of it, he was succeeded by Eustace, earl of Cologne. In the chapel on the south side of the church, built by sir Oliver Calthorp, were his arms, besides others in the windows. This village was greatly improved by J. Coldham, esq. Here are the manors of Anmer Hall and Bereford. Anmer park is the seat of James Coldham, esq.

APPLETON. Thirty-eight miles. St. Mary. P. Written in Domesday-book, Appletuna.-Here was a seat of the Pastons, a very handsome pile, which, in 1707, was burnt to the ground, to the great danger of the family, who were in their beds. Blomefield says, "the church is mostly in ruins; it was covered with lead, and had a round tower. I found horses chained together in the porch and in the church, both in a filthy condition, and no door to the church." Here is an inscription to the Paston family, &c. South of the church, about fifty yards, is a curious spring, called Holy Well. In this town was found a coin of Antoninus Pius.

ASHWICKEN. Thirty-one miles. All Saints. P. 79. Alias Wyken or Ashwyken.-In Wyken were two lordships granted by the Conqueror to two different families; these two lordships extended into two little adjoining towns, Lesiate and Holt: the former is still a distant separate parish, and has a church belonging to it dedicated also to All Saints, and appropriated to the priory of Westacre. Service is performed in this church every third Sunday, and two Sundays at Ashwicken. Holt has no church, and has become a part of the parish of Lesiate. It was held by the Gents, the Theresbys, Drury, Wright, the Spencers, and Crowe. Ash

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wicken lies upon the right of the turnpike-road from Lynn, at a distance of five miles. Formerly the road from Lynn to Norwich, near this place, was extremely dangerous; and Bawsey Bottom was reckoned the worst piece of road in England, and dreaded by all travellers. This road is now excellent.

BABINGLEY. Thirty-four miles. St. Felix. P. 53.The church of Babingley, which has a square tower, is supposed to be the first church that was built in this county (East Anglia). It was dedicated to St. Felix the Burgundian, who converted the East Angles. Sir Henry Spelman says, "several hills, called Christian hills, in the vicinity, serve

confirm the opinion." The river, or channel, parts it from Castle Rising, which was formerly a sea port town; and, though the sea has left it, the tide still flows up the river. Here are the manors of Butlers or West Hall, and West Hall or Tatishales.

P. 34.

BAWSEY. Thirty-eight miles. St. Bawsey and Glasthorpe were two distinct villages at the survey. The situation of this town is but indifferent, being placed on swamps and surrounded with sands.

BILNEY (WEST). Thirty-two miles. St. Cecilia. P. 193. Written in Domesday-book, Benelai.-In the time of Edward the Confessor it belonged to Bundo, a Saxon thane: held also by Mildmay, Windham, Freake, &c. Here are the manors of West Bilney, and Monpinzouns.

CASTLE ACRE. Twenty-nine miles. St. James. P.1100. Called in Domesday-book, Acre.-Was granted at the conquest by king William 1. to William earl Warren, in Normandy, and after of Surrey in England; to whom he also granted one hundred and forty-six lordships in this country. The church is a large regular building, with a nave, a north and south aisle, and a chancel. square tower with five bells. In the windows and about the At the west end is a lofty church of Castle Acre, are the arms of Warren. church possesses some curious specimens of ancient archiThis tecture. Thomas Candeler, of Castle Acre, by his will, dated in 1514, was buried in the church, and gave two closes,

called Costing and Westgate, to Thomas March and his heirs, "on the condition of keeping a light in the bason before our Lady in the chapel, with five waxe candels, to be light at ev'ry principal feste; in every dobil feste two, and every single feste one; on neglect whereof, then the church reeves to take the closes and to keep the same."

Castle Acre Priory (and manor) was founded by William de Warren, the first earl Warren, earl also of Moreton and Surrey, who, being on a pilgrimage to Rome, with his countess, visited many of the foreign monasteries; and being received with particular respect by the prior and convent of Cluni, in Burgundy, were admitted into their fraternity, and, having long before determined to found some religious house for the welfare of their souls, they now came to a resolution to found it for the order of Clunial monks. Accordingly, they obtained of the prior and convent of Lewes, in Sussex, four of their monks to assist in their new foundation, which commenced about 1078, to which he soon after annexed the church and manor of Castle Acre, to be subordinate to that of Lewes. This he accomplished accordingly, and gave the monks the name of the Clunial monks, of St. Pancras at Lewes, serving God at Acre. Numberless were the benefactors and benefactions given to this priory; and churches, lands, and revenues without end, by the laity of those times. The archbishop of Canterbury contented himself with granting indulgencies. The monks certified to the king, that the prior and convent of Castle Acre, were all Englishmen, consequently not alien or subject to any other foreign controul. But in 1553 this proud and wealthy monastery, which had struck off dependence upon its original order and church, resigned its honours, "for certain reasons, just and reasonable," &c., and gave up its riches to the hand of power.

The late Rev. R. Forby, in his very ingenious account of Castle Acre priory, to which we have added his corrections, says "that the west front of this pile of building, is by far the most conspicuous and picturesque part of the ruins. It is indeed a very noble Norman façade, and though not entire, there is enough to convey a clear idea of its perfect

Vide his description of Castle Acre Priory, in "Britton's Architectural Antiquities of Norfolk, which form part of the latter author's most interesting series of "Architectural Illustration," a work highly creditable to the perseverance of this indefatigable topographer.

state. The delineation of all the members of it is so accurate, that it is unnecessary to describe them in detail. It will be observed, that at the upper part of the south tower are two sharply pointed arches. There is a similar pair on each side of the other sides. It is probable that more of them extended upwards, as the tower must have been originally higher by one or two tiers of arches.*

The nave was one hundred and eight feet long, and, with the two aisles, fifty-four broad, interior measure. The first arch on either side of the grand western entrance, opened into the towers, each of which had another arch into the adjoining aisle. The north tower is completely dilapidated, and a part of the north wall. There were six columns, or rather piers, on each side of the nave, exclusive of the greater ones at the transept. The two arches beneath the south tower are entire, but blocked up with modern work of ancient materials. A small part of the next arch of the nave, on the same side, also remains; also one arch of the second tier in the south tower. These are all richly ornamented in front with broad double bands of various mouldings. The archivaults were either faced with stone, or covered with a very firm composition. The piers of the nave are all fallen, excepting that supporting the south tower, which is entire; and the inner parts of two more on the north side, from which all the casing of hewn stone is stripped away. These bear plain marks of the imposts and springers of a vaulted stone roof: that of the side aisles

* "It seems of some importance, whenever it is possible, to settle the dates of such pointed arches as occur before the regular pointed style came into use; more particularly when they are found in the same building with round arches, and have similar columns and mouldings as the others. Such are those in the Temple church, erected in 1172, and in that of St. Cross, about 1130. I am not willing these at Castle Acre should pass for authentic specimens forty years older still, because I am well satisfied they were intermediate between the two I have mentioned. In the time of the first earl Warren, the founder, the buildings were no doubt begun; and a church, as was usual, hastily erected for immediate use. In the time of the second earl it was found inconvenient and insufficient; and among his many additional donations particularized by Blomefield, was land to erect a new church:' at what part of his time, from 1089 to 1135, does not appear. That church was consecrated in the time of the third earl, who died in 1148, by Turlus, bishop of Norwich, who was enthroned in 1146. Now the upper parts of the western towers must be supposed the last erected, allowing it completed at the time of its consecration, this seems quite conclusive as to the highest possible antiquity of these pointed arches. Both sides of the western front have been within a very few years cleared of the encumbrances of pent houses and hovels, for various purposes, and every part of the exterior is now visible; the soil, however, is raised, particularly on the inside above the bases of the columns, whence the plinths, &c. are obscured. I am informed that some means have been also used to secure from further decay those parts of the remaining tower which are most exposed to injury from wet; and that it is intended to secure the upper part of the great window, which is now in a state of much danger."