RITCHIE AND LYON.

177

pools of stagnant water, which rendered even the natives liable to fever and ague. The members of the expedition soon felt its effects, Lieutenant Lyon being seized with dysentery, and Mr Ritchie with bilious fever, under which they languished during the whole summer. The treacherous Mukni not only withheld all aid, but studiously prevented others from giving them assistance. At length Mr Ritchie, overwhelmed by disease and anxiety, died on the 20th November 1819; after which Mr Lyon found himself without the means of penetrating farther than to the southern frontier of Fezzan. He obtained a good deal of information respecting the remoter countries, which, however, has been rendered less important by the fuller and more recent intelligence received through Denham and Clapperton. He passes a very unfavourable judgment upon the territory of Fezzan, which he considers nearly as barren as any part of the surrounding desert. The cultivation is confined to a few gardens, into which water is raised by immense labour from wells of considerable depth.

L

CHAPTER XII.

Denham and Clapperton.

Arrangements with the Court of Tripoli-The Travellers arrive there-Journey to Mourzouk-Difficulties Agreement with Boo Khalloom-Departure-The Desert-Tibboos and TuaricksArrival at the Lake Tchad-The Yeou-Kouka-Visit to the Sheik The Sultan-Description of Bornou-Denham's Excursion to Mandara-Great Range of Mountains-Disastrous Expedition-War against the Mungas-Excursion to LoggunExpedition against the La Salas-Biddoomahs-Clapperton's Journey into Houssa-Appearance of that Country-Kano-Sackatoo-Sultan Bello-Return of the Travellers.

NOTHING could shake the determination of the British government to obtain, by some means or other, a competent degree of information respecting the unknown countries of Africa. The great favour enjoyed at the court of Tripoli was still regarded as an advantageous circumstance. It was chiefly due, as already observed, to the prudence and ability of Mr Warrington, without whose advice scarcely any thing of importance was transacted. The bashaw was therefore disposed to renew his protection to whatsoever mission Britain might send. Nor could the support of any sovereign have been more efficient; for the influence of this petty prince, and the terror of his name, are almost unbounded in the greatest kingdoms of Central Africa. One weapon, the gun, in the hands of his troops, gives him all

ARRIVAL AT TRIPOLI.

179

this superiority; for the remoter nations, from the Nile to the Atlantic, scarcely know any other arms besides the spear, the bow, and the javelin. A musket among those tribes is an object of almost supernatural dread; individuals have been seen kneeling down before it, speaking to it in whispers, and addressing to it earnest supplications. With troops thus armed, the Bashaw of Tripoli is esteemed in Northern Africa the most potent monarch on earth; and it is a matter of surprise among the natives that he has not ere now compelled all Europe to embrace the Mohammedan faith. He could therefore assure the English that, for any but physical obstacles, they might travel as safely from Tripoli to Bornou, as from Edinburgh to London.

Under the confidence inspired by these circumstances, government prepared another expedition, and without difficulty procured a fresh band of adventurers; who undertook to brave all its perils. Major Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton of the navy, and Dr Oudney, a naval surgeon possessing a considerable knowledge of natural history, were appointed to this service. Without delay they proceeded to Tripoli, where they arrived on the 18th November 1821. They were immediately introduced to the bashaw, whom they found sitting cross-legged on a carpet, attended by armed negroes. After treating them to sherbet and coffee, he invited them to a hawking-party, where he appeared mounted on a milk-white Arabian steed superbly caparisoned, having a saddle of crimson-velvet richly studded with gold nails, and with embroidered trappings. He was preceded by six chaoushes, or officers, in white silk robes; while two favourite negro slaves,

2

in glittering vest, light burnouse, and white turban, supported him on each side. The hunt began on the borders of the Desert, where parties of six or eight Arabs dashed forward quick as lightning, fired suddenly, and rushed back with loud cries. The skill with which they manoeuvred their steeds, whirling the long musket over their heads as they rode at full gallop, appeared quite surprising.

Although the English were personally well treated at Tripoli, they could not shut their eyes to the reigning barbarism. The sheik, Belgassum Khalifa, a fine old Arab, understood to be high in the favour of the bashaw, had been one evening at an elegant entertainment in the palace, when on reaching his own door a pistol-shot wounded him in the arm, and on his entering the passage, a second penetrated his body. He staggered into the house, denouncing his own nephew as the author of the assassination. The murderers rushed in, and completed their crime by stabbing him seven times with their daggers, while his wife received two wounds in endeavouring to save him. The three actors in this tragedy instantly fled for protection to the British consulate ; but Mr Warrington sent notice to the bashaw, "that the murderers of Khalifa would find no protection under the flag of England." That potentate, however, either privy to the crime or disposed to wink at its commission, expressed his regret that the guilty persons had found shelter in the consulate; a sanctuary, he added, that he could not think of violating. Repeated assurance was given that he might send any force, or use any means, to drag them from beneath a banner that never was disgraced by giving protection to assassins. The ba

JOURNEY TO MOURZOUK-RETURN.

181

shaw at length, ashamed of his apathy, sent sixteen stout fellows, by whom the ruffians were seized ; and in less than an hour they were seen hanging from the castle-walls.

The mission, fortified with recommendations to the Sultan of Fezzan, now entered upon their long and dreary pilgrimage to Mourzouk, where they arrived on the 8th April 1822. This prince received them with affability, but gave himself very little trouble in making provision for the prosecution of their journey. He even intimated his intention of visiting Tripoli, and the necessity of their remaining till his return. This arrangement was most disheartening; nor did they know what reliance to place in the sincerity of Boo Khalloom, a great merchant, who invited them to accompany an expedition which he was preparing for Soudan. The sultan and he soon after departed, each with large presents for the bashaw, to intrigue against one another at the court of Tripoli. After this there was scarcely a camel left in Fezzan, or any other means of travelling. Major Denham therefore saw no alternative but that he himself should hasten back to Tripoli, and remonstrate with the bashaw on this apparent violation of his promise. After a tedious journey of twenty days, with only three attendants, he arrived, and waited on the barbarian, who received him with his usual courtesy; but, not giving that full satisfaction which was expected, the major lost no time in setting sail for England, to lodge a complaint with his own court. This step was painfully felt by the bashaw, who sent vessel after vessel, one of which at last overtook Major Denham while performing quarantine at Marseilles,