leries, each 200 feet long, with a tower upwards of fifty feet high. One part, apparently more ancient than the rest, and almost falling into ruin, was thought to exhibit a style of architecture decidedly superior to the more modern buildings.

Timbuctoo is entirely supported by commerce. It is the depôt of the salt conveyed from the mines of Taudeny, and also of the European goods brought by the caravans from Morocco, as well as by those from Tunis and Tripoli, which come by way of Ghadamis. These goods are embarked for Jenne, to be exchanged for the gold, slaves, and provisions, with which that city exclusively supplies Tim

buctoo, the neighbourhood being almost a complete desert. The population is estimated at 10,000 or 12,000, which, not being in proportion to a town three miles in circumference, is probably underrated. The people are chiefly negroes of the Kissour tribe, but bigoted Mohammedans. There appeared less bustle and activity than at Jenne,— a circumstance not very easily accounted for. Osman, the king, was an agreeable-looking negro of fifty-five, to whom the traveller was introduced, without being aware that he was only viceroy, or at least tributary, to the Sultan of Masina. The country is much harassed by the wandering tribe of Tuaricks, who, like the Bedouins in Arabia, levy a regular tax on the caravans.*

*

*The map constructed by M. Jomard, upon Caillie's routes, changes greatly the position of Timbuctoo, especially in respect to longitude, which it places four degrees to the westward of the site assigned by Major Rennel. It seems impossible, however, to admit an alteration to this extent, which would throw Sego so far westward as to render Park's bearings from Jarra to Sego, and from Sego to Bammakoo, completely erroneous. Besides, it appears to us that M. Jomard has forced to the westward all the positions between Jenne and Timbuctoo, in a manner quite unwarranted by M. Caillie's own descriptions. This excess becomes manifest in the line from Galia to the mouth of the Debo, thirty-five miles of which are stated to run north-east, without a single movement in a contrary direction; yet M. Jomard has manoeuvred to make the last position the most westerly of the two. If the route from Jenne to Timbuctoo lies as much to the northward as M. Caillié represents, where, indeed, he in some measure agrees with the delineation of D'Anville, it must be somewhat farther west than our maps place it, but not nearly so far as M. Jomard fixes it. In regard to the observation of latitude attempted by the traveller, M. Jomard's claims are very moderate, since he merely argues that, in the absence of any other, this is not wholly to be neglected; yet even this seems too much, when he at the same time admits that all the observations made by him in a similar manner are of no value whatUnder these circumstances, we conceive that it would be premature to change, in our map, the position of Timbuctoo from that formerly fixed by Major Rennel.

ever.

R

Caillié left Timbuctoo on the 4th May, and in six days arrived at Aroan or Arouan, which he found rather a well-built town with 3000 inhabitants, supported solely by the passage of the caravans from Barbary, and from the salt-mines of Taudeny, which usually halt here before and after passing the Desert to the northward. The environs of Aroan are of the most desolate aspect, and all its provisions are drawn from Jenne by way of Timbuctoo. The neighbourhood does not afford an herb or a shrub, and the only fuel consists of the dried dung of camels. The springs, which alone render it habitable, are abundant, but of bad quality. The town also carries on a considerable trade in light goods directly with Sansanding and Yamina. Walet was mentioned as a great emporium, situated to the west-south-west, in a position somewhat different from that assigned by Park; but the data in both cases are very vague, and we do not see the slightest ground for M. Jomard's conjecture that there are two Walets.

Our traveller departed from Aroan on the 19th May, in company with a caravan of 120 camels laden with the productions of Soudan. He had the prospect of crossing a desert of ten days' journey, in which there was scarcely a drop of water. "Before us appeared a horizon without bounds, in which our eyes distinguished only an immense plain of burning sand, enveloped by a sky on fire. At this spectacle the camels raised long cries, and the slaves mournfully lifted their eyes to heaven." M. Caillié, however, departed in high spirits, animated by the idea of being the first European who should, from the southern side, have crossed this

HIS RETURN-DOUVILLE.

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sandy ocean. But his tone of feeling was soon lowered when he came to experience the sufferings arising from the intense heat, the blowing of the sand, and the scanty supply of water, which was served out only twice a-day, leaving long intervals, during which the most tormenting thirst was endured. Some small wells, from which they had hoped for a little aid, were found dry; so that both men and animals were reduced to the last extremity, when they reached the copious springs of Telig, and relieved their thirst by repeated draughts.

During many succeeding marches, water again became scarce, and Caillié had much to suffer from the insult and neglect of his companions. El Drah, on the outer frontier of Morocco, was the first inhabited district; but it was poor, and occupied by inhospitable tribes of Moors and Berebbers. Turning somewhat eastward, they passed through the fine country of Tafilet, covered with noble woods of date-trees, and producing a valuable breed of sheep. After undergoing the labour of crossing a rugged defile of Mount Atlas, they proceeded to Fez, whence the adventurer found his way, though in a somewhat poor plight, to Tangier. He arrived on the 18th August 1828, and M. Delaporte, the vice-consul, received and forwarded him to France.

To the account of M. Caillie's journey we may with propriety add that of his countryman M. Douville, though we possess as yet only the slight outline presented by him to the French Geographical Society. He sought to penetrate the interior from the coast of Congo and Angola, on which the Portuguese have still a few settlements. Embarking at Loango, he entered the Bengo or Zenza. In as

cending that river, the country on each side, beyond the immediate banks, appeared almost a desert parched by the burning rays of the sun. As he proceeded the surface became more elevated, so that the province of Dembos appeared to consist altogether of barren hills. These are remarkable for numerous echoes, which, during the violent tempests of thunder and lightning, fill the natives with superstitious awe. The traveller next reached a territory, which, though not mountainous, was composed entirely of rock covered only with a few feet of earth, and yielding a very scanty vegetation. The people are stout, warlike, and cruel.

M. Douville now returned to the coast, and afterwards proceeded in a direction somewhat more southerly from Benguela to Bihé, which he found to be more improved than any district he had yet visited. It consists of a table-land, supposed to be about 7940 feet above the level of the ocean, covered with thick forests, and watered by numerous torrents. Advancing to the northward he came to a very lofty mountain, which he ascended to the height of 10,630 feet, but was still two days' journey from the summit. It showed traces of a volcanic eruption.

Having returned again to the shores of the Atlantic, M. Douville departed a third time from Ambriz in a more northerly line till he reached Cassange, the residence of the Jaga, on the banks of the Congo. That barbarous potentate received him in a friendly manner, but absolutely refused the permission which he solicited to pass the river. However, profiting by the instructions which he received from the eldest son, who was on bad terms with his father, the traveller