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the pulpit, the admonitions from the thionable one he thus describes : moral writers, and the satirical re- “ The ladies ornamented their heads Hections of the poets, were not suf- “ with certain rolls of linen, pointed ficiently powerful to conquer the pre-“like fteeples, generally half, and valency of this fashioo, or at least, not “ fometimes three quarters, of an very hallily; for the horned head. “ eil in height” These were called dress maintained its ground nearly by fome, great butterflies, from have two centuries. Lidgate, the monk ing two long wings on each side reof Bury, who lived in the reign of sembling those of that insect. The Henry the Sixth, has written a long high cap was covered with a fine piece ballad upon this subje&t ; and he of lawn hanging dowu to the ground, therein endeavours to persuade the the greater part of which was tuckladies to lay aside their horns, which, ed under the arm. The ladies of a he infifts upon, are no addition to middle rank wore caps of cloth, contheir beauty; for beauty, adds he, lifting of several breadths or bands, will show itself, though the horns he twisted round the head, with ewo cast away.
He uses also another ar. wings on the side like asses' ears; Ogument, namely, the example of the thers, again, of a higher condition, Virgin Mary, who never submitted wore caps of black velvet, half a yard to any such disguisement.
high, which in these days would apAt the commencement of the fif- pear very strange and unseemly. teenth century, this species of head- “ is no easy matter," continues the dress was extended to a preposterous author, “ to give a proper description lize. We learn, that, when Isabel of " in writing of the different fainions Bavaria, the pain and luxurious con- " in the dresses of the ladies ;'. and fort of Charles the Sixth of France, ħe refers the readers to the ancient kept her court at Vincennes, it was tapestry and painted glass, in which necessary to make all the doors in the they may see them more perfectly repalace higher and wider, to admit the presented; to these he might have head-dreffes of the queen and her la. added the illuminated manuscripts, dies. Indeed, it is by no means wherein they are frequently cnough wonderful, that large coiffures should to be met with. have continued long in fashion, especially among the women of high rank, Cumbersome and Extravagant Dreses wheo it is considered, that they ad- of the Men, Temp. Hen. IV. mitted of a proportionable variety of Henry the Fourth, coon after his ornaments, and afforded an oppor. accession to the throne, revived the tunity for the ladies of displaying fumptuary statutes of Edward the their taste to greater advantage than a Third ; but, if they had then been fmaller compass would admit of. Itrenuously carried into execution,
A foreign author* speaks of the Thomas Occliff, who wrote in the horned head-dress, as it was worn at reign of that monarch, would not Lyons, in the following manner: “It have had the occasion of complaint
confifted of a mixture of woollen which he exhibits againt the extra66 cloth and filk, with two horns re- vagance of dress existent in his time. “ fembling turrets, and was cut and This poet, after enumerating many
pinked after the falhion of a Ger. things requiring amendment, comes “ man hood, or crifped like the bel. to the subject of apparel: “and this,”
ley of a calf.” But at the time of says he, “in my thinking, is an evil, his writing, this attire seems to have“ to fee one walking in gownes of been upon the decline; the more fa- “ scarlet twelve yards wide, with
Deeves * Paradin, Hist. de Lyons, p. 271. These fashions were in use A. D. 1461,
Dresses of the Men in the time of Henry IV.
39 “fleeves reaching to the ground, and his back: “ In days of old," says he, “ lined with fur, worth twenty pounds, "s when men were clad in a more
or more ; at the same time, if he «s simple manner, there was abun. “had only been master of what he “ dance of good eating; but now
paid for, he would not have had " they clothe themselves in such an enough to have lined á hood.”- “expensive manner, that the former He then proceeds to condemn the “ hospitality is banished from their pride of the lower classes of the peo- “ houses." He then laments, “ that ple, for imitating the fashions and a nobleman cannot adopt a extravagances of the rich : "and cer
guise, or fashion, but that a kvave "tainly,” says he, “the great lords “ will follow his example ;” and,
" are to blame, if I dare say so much, speaking in commendation of John of to permit their dependants to imi. Gaunt, Duke of Lancaiter, he intate them in their dress. In form- forms us, that “his garments were
er time, persons of rank were known not too wide, and yet they became " by their apparel ; but, at present, “ him wondrously well.” “ Now, 'it is
very difficult to diftinguish the “ would to God!"' continues he, “nobleman from one of low degree.” " this waste of cloth and pride were He then confiders the “ foule waste or exiled from us for ever ; for, now "of cloth" attendant upon thefe lux. 66 we have little need of brooms in urious fashions, and affures us, that “ the land to sweep away the filth no less than a yard of broad cloth was " from the street, because the side. expended for one man's tippet. Re- “ fleeves of pennyless grooms will turning to his former argument, that gather it up,
if it should be either noblemen ought not to encourage wet or dry.” He then addresses their servants in the usage of such ex• himself, by apostrophe, to his countravagant dresses, he says, “ lf the try, and advises a reformation of all " mafter should stumble as he walks, these abuses : his satirical conclusion, " how can his servant afford him any however, I hope, is inapplicable to "affistance, while both his hands any time but his own. “ If,” says he, " have full employment in holding up “a man of abilities, meanly clad, “ the long sleeves with which his arms “ fhould seek access to the presence
are encumbered * ?" He then adds, “ of a nobleman, he would be denied that “the taylors must soon Mape “ on the account of his clothing ; " their garments in the open field, “but, on the contrary, a man who, “ for want of room to cut them in " by flattery and the meanest servi
their own houses ; because that man “ lity, can procure himself the most " is best respected who bears upon
his • fashionable apparel, he thall be re" back, at
one time, the greatest “ceived with great honour.” quantity of cloth and of fur."
From the following observation the Trunk Breeches, or Slops--the Varreader may, perchance, fufpect the re
dingale. formift of loving his belly more than The next remarkable innovation
(at They are thus described by another author: Maxime togatorum cum profundis et latis manicis, vocatis vulgariter pokys, ad modum bagpipe formatis: wearing gowns with deep wide Deeves, commonly called pokys, shaped like a bagpipe, and worn indifferently both by fervants and masters. They are also rightly denominated devil's, receptacles, recertacula dæmoniorum redié dici; for, whatever could be stolen, was popped into them. Some were so long and wide that they reached to the feet, others to the knees, and were full of llits. As the forvants were bringing up portage and fauces, or any other liquors, chose fleeves would go into them, and have the first taste. And all they could procure was spent to clothe their uncurable carcases with those pokys or sleeves, while the rest of their habit was short. Vita Ric. II. p. 172.
(at the beginning of the reign of Eli- extenfion of her hips, inquired if that zabeth) was the trunk breeches or shape was peculiar to the women of flops, which were gradually swelled England : to which the lady replie', 10 an enormous fize : these breeches, that the English women did not dit. we are told, were stuffed out with fer in shape from those of other counrags, wool, tow, or hair, and some. tries; and, by explaining to her the times, indeed, with articles of a more nature of the dress, cunvinced the cumbrous nature, if the story related Sultaness, that she and ber compaby Holingshed be founded upon fact; nions were not really fo de furmed as wherein a man is said to have exhi. they appeared to be. bited the whole of his bed and table furniture, taken from those extensive Anecdote of Sir Philip Calthrop and receptacles. The ladies also, on their
John Drakes. parts, extended their garments from The propensity of persons of low the hips with foxes'tails and bum-rolls, estate to imitate the fashions of those as they are called; but, finding that, above them, has been adveried to leby such moderation, they could keep veral times in the course of this chap
with the vast protuberance of ter; and now, by way of conclusion, the trunk flops, they introduced the I shall add a short story from Camgreat and itately vardingales, or far. den, in which this propenfity is very dingales, which superseded all formed properly ridiculed. “ I will tell you," inventions, and gave them the power says the venerable antiquary, “ how of appearing as large as they pleased. “ Sir Philip Calthrop purged John
The vardingale afforded the ladies “ Drakes, the shoemaker of Nor.. a great opportunity of displaying « wich, in the time of Henry the their jewels, and the other ornamen- "Eighth, of the proud humour which tal parts of their dress, to the utmost our people have to be of the genadvantage, and, for that reason, I - tleman's cut.This knight bought presume, obtained the fuperiority a time as much fine French over the clofe habits and the more tawny cloth as should make him a fimple imitations of Nature; and “ gown, and sent it to his taylor's to what, indeed, was the court-dressvery“ be made. John Drakes, a shoelately, but the vardingale differently o'maker, of that town, coming to the modified, being comprefled before and « faid taylor's, and seeing the knight's
" behind, and proportionably extended “gown-cloth lying there, and liking at the tides? Bulwer, to whom I have 6 it well, caused the taylor to buy several times had occalion to refer, 6 for him as much of the same cloth, gives us the following anecdote rela. " at the like price, to the same intent; tive to this unnatural habit : When " and, further, he bad him make it Sir Peter Wych was ambassador to sin che same fashion that the knight the Grand Seignor from King James « would have his made of. Not long the Firit; his lady was with him at " after, the knight coming to the Conftantinople; and the Soltaness, “ taylor to take measure of his gown, having heard much of her, desired to “ he perceived the like gown cloth fee ber; whereupon, Lady Wych, “ lying there, and alked the taylor accompanied with her waiting women, “ whose it was. “ It belongs," quoth all of them neatly dressed in their
" the taylor,
to John Drakes, who great vardingales, which was the ". will have it made in the self same court dress of the Englith ladies of " fashion that yours is made of.”. that time, waited upon her Highness. “ Well,” said the knight, “ in good The Sultaness received her with great 6 time be ic: I will have inine as full refpect; but, wondering much at the s of cuts as thy shears can make it."
bad me ;
16 " It shall be done,” said the In former times, says an author "taylor. Whereupon, because the who wrote in the reign of Queen Eli“ time drew near, he made haste to zabeth, “a nobleman's house was a “ finish both their garments. John“
commonwealthe in itselfe ; but fince " Drakes had no time to go to the "the reteining of these caterpillers,"
" " taylor's till Christmas-day, for fer. meaning the vagrant players, "the 6 ving of his customers, when he had “ credite of noblemen hath decaied, " hoped to have worn his gown ; per.
" and they are thought to be corete "ceiving the fame to be full of cuts, “ous, by permitting their servants, 6 he began to swear at the taylor for “ which cannot live of themselves, making his
after that sort. “ and whome, for neerness, they will “I have done nothing," quoth the “not maintain, to live at the devo“ taylor, “ but what
or tion or almes of other men, paffing “ for, as Sir Philip Calthrop's gown
6 from countrie to countrie, from one " is, even so have I made yours.” gentleman's house to another, of
By my latcher," quoth John fering their service ; which is a kind “ Drakes, “ I will never wear a gen. "of beggarie; who, indeede, to “tleman's fashion again. *"
speake more trulie, are become beg.
gers for their servants : for, como Minstrels and Players. “ modlie the good will men beare to Minstrels and players were for
or their lordes makes them drawe the merly retainers in the houses of the stringes of their purses to extend nobility: they wore the livery and “their liberalities to them, where badges of the master to whom they otherwise they would not.”' belonged; and, under that sanction, Under the appellation of minstrels, travelling from place to place, exhi. no doubt, was included all such perbited their performances for hire. In fons as itudied music professionally, the reigo of Queen Mary, a remon. and performed for pay. It seems cerftrance from the privy council was tain, that some peculiar kind of dress presented to the lord president of the was generally adopted by these melonorth, stating, ' that certain lewd,” dious itinerants; and, from seeing that is, dissolute or ignorant, “persons, them frequently depicted in habits "to the number of fix or seven in a · altogether different from those in
company, naming themselves to be common ufage, I am led to conclude " the servants of Sir Francis Lake, that, in addition to their mufical ta" and wearing his livery, or badge, lerts, they often exbibited certain
upon their sleeves, have wandered tricks of buffoonery, to which the
about these north parts, represent- quaintness of their dress was accom"ing certain plays and interludes, re- modated; we may then consider them
flecting on her Majesty and King as a kind of mimics ; and probably " Philip, and the formalities of the they were the primitive introducers
of the strange disguisements that make --Thefe, according to War- up the medley of a modern masqueton, were “ family minitrels, or play. rade; and, by such a double exhibi
who were conítantly diftin. tion, the exertions of a single 'mio“guished by their master's livery, or Arel might afford no small degree of " badge."--In cooleq'.ence of the merriment to minds unprepared for above remonstrance, Sir Francis Lake any superior species of entertainment, was enjoined to correct his feryants We frequently find them in company
with other drolls, whose performanEd. Mag. Jan. 180o.
ces consisted of dancing, of tumbling, teenth century t, which contains a or of balancing, to the music*. It short Bible history, embellished with appears, indeed, that dancing and many curious paintings, there is one tumbling, in former times, differed picture reprefenting the daughter of but little, if at all, from each other; Herodias in the presence of Herod; at least, they seem to be often con. but, instead of dancing, according to founded: a remarkable inttance oc- our acception of the word, she is licurs to my memory.-In a splendid terally tumbling, or making a lomanuscript, written and illuminated mersault, with her hands upon the at the commcocement of the thir- ground.
EXTRACTS FROM SONXINI'S TRAVELS IN UPPER AND LOWER EGYPT.
Account of Baths at Siout. tine. The operation of having the DY
URING my itay at Siout I con- foles of the feet roughly rubbed is one
ftantly frequented the baths, to of the chief pleasures of the Egypwhich I had taken a great liking, and tiang ; but at first it is insupportable which appeared to me to have a very to Europeans, and occafions involunsalutary effect. These baths are nei. tary motions and fartings, which are ther fo hrowlome, nor kept in such excited by the fenfibility of the parts. good order as those at Cairo. Belides After a certain time, these too delithe different manners of kneading the cate sensations are no longer felt ; and fich, of suppling the limbs, and of at length this operation becomes subbing the body, the Sybarites of agreeable, especially when it is perthis part of the country take great formed by an experienced hand. pleasure in having the soles of their feet rubbed, in their own houses, with Intoxicating quality of Hemp. pieces of pumice-stone. The fort Hemp is cultivated in the plains that is the most esteemed for this use of these countries ; but it is not spun is of a blackish cast; it is shaped like into thread as in Europe, although it a shuttle cut with a feather-edge on might probably answer for that purone side, and a flat surface is left on pose. It is, nevertheless, a plant very the other. This shape is the most much in ufe. For want of intoxicatconvenient for the hand of the person ing liqúors, the Arabs and Egyptians who applies the friction. The flat compose from it different preparafide, or the bottom, is striped with tions, which throw them into a sort deep denticulations, which give it the of pleasing inebriety, a state of reverie roughness of a large file, and which that inspires gaiety, and occasions fcrape the foles of the feet in a supe- agreeable dreams. This kind of annirior manner.
hilation of the faculty of thinking, The pieces of pumice-stone thus this kind of Number of the foul, bears formed are called in Arabic el hakkē no resemblance to the intoxication The best are said to come froin Palef- produced by wine or itrong liquors,
Representations of all these performances frequently occur in the illuminated MSS. whence several examples are given in the lirit and second volumes of the Manners and Customs of the English. + In Bibl. Harl. infig. 1527.
# Another painting, representing a girl tumbling upon her hand to the music, oceurs in a MSS. in the Cotton Library, marked Domitian, A II.; which is nearly as ancient as that above mentioned.