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in almost all the Jewish communities throughout the world. The Jews here have of late years relaxed very much. Formerly a Jew would not let his house to a Christian-some of the Jews being the proprietors of the finest houses, situated in the best quarters-on account of ́the Roman Catholic custom of bringing the host to their sick, which they adore as God himself, and which the Jews look upon as idolatry, as it really is; but they are not troubled any more with that scruple, and even live in the same houses with Christians. They consider it, however, a great hardship to be obliged to decorate the outside of their houses, as often as the Roman Catholics pass the streets in procession with their images.

The great idol of Leghorn is on Monte Nero, the image of the Virgin Mary, the patron of this town. All the bills of health given to the captains of the various vessels have the image printed on the top; and it is stated therein that, thanks to the Virgin of Monte Nero, the town is in perfect health. The legend of this image is as follows: "There was in the Levant a place called Negroponto; near it was a church, in which the miraculous image was adored in former times; but all at once the image took such an affection to the pious inhabitants of Leghorn, that it transported itself miraculously to the shores of this place. This happened in 1345. When the image arrived at the place called Ardenza, it called a shepherd, who was there feeding a flock, and told him to carry it to the next hill, which is called Monte Nero. The shepherd was infirm; but he, nevertheless, took the image, and carried it to the place as desired, in recompense for which he was made whole. Now he went joyfully to Leghorn, recounted what had befallen him with the image, upon which the whole town went to see the wonderful

Madonna. A church was forthwith erected on the spot, as well as a convent, to its honour, and numberless are the miracles which this image has performed. Once they removed it to another church, but it went itself back again to Monte Nero." This fable is devoutly believed by the genuine Roman Catholics. Very often is the town and vicinity of Leghorn posted with placards, inviting the faithful to attend the ceremonies at Monte Nero. The heading of such placards is invariably the following: "Viva la gran madre di Dio Maria di Monte Nero."* So much, my Lord, for Leghorn.

At Florence, there are still two distinct congregations, the B'nay Italia, and the S'phardim. Their respective synagogues are very nice and handsome structures. Some of the Jews are very wealthy indeed. All of them devote themselves to commerce. As far as learning is concerned, Jewish names do not figure there. Florence cannot boast of a single Jew of renown. The once famous Hebrew printing-press does no longer exist there, for the best of reasons-there is no work for it. The Jews of Florence have no taste for literary pursuits.

The number of Jews at Pisa is small; it does not exceed two hundred and fifty. However, there is a synagogue and a Rabbi. The splendid Hebrew printing-press, which but a few years ago was in a very flourishing condition, has also passed away, and for the same reason as that of Florence. I determined to ascend whilst there the famous belfry, built in the twelfth century. The sensation I experienced was of so disagreeable a nature, that I have not as yet got over it. Though it is but one hundred and ninety feet high, I

* The Bishop of Gibraltar showed me a very large placard which adorned the walls of Leghorn, immediately after my leaving it, and which bore the above heading.

never felt so giddy in my life, in which time I have mounted far higher eminences than one hundred and ninety feet, owing no doubt to the extraordinary deviation from the perpendicular-no less than fourteen feet. I felt an almost uncontrollable determination to leap down from it. I do not think I shall ever be tempted to be so high again on it.

I might have lengthened this epistle to a much larger extent, but it would only be with information your Lordship is doubtless acquainted with, such as the state of Protestantism, the effect of the appointment of a Bishop of Gibraltar, the number of English here, &c. &c. I shall therefore say nothing about those particulars. Hoping that your Lordship will consider this epistle an atonement for my apparent forgetfulness, I have the honour to subscribe myself,

Your Lordship's, &c.

LETTER XVI.

TO HIS GRACE THE ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY.

My Lord Archbishop,

Malta, Sept. 1847.

I refrained writing to your Grace hitherto-for I purposed, on my leaving England, to write to you from Marseilles-because that in the letter I received from you, whilst at Paris, you said, "I shall be glad to hear from you, when you are at Malta. Do not inconvenience yourself to write to me ere then, &c.;" which I considered as a gentle and delicate hint not to write before then. But

now I consider myself at perfect liberty to do myself the honour of writing to your Grace. I must confess that I felt rather impatient of doing it, for I was anxious to express my sense of thankfulness for the several notes of introduction which you were so pleased to inclose in your last to me, which I do now. I am convinced that the introductions will be of great service to me in those quarters to which they are directed. I feel your Grace's favour the more grateful because it was unsolicited on my part, and am comparatively but little known to you. May it please your Grace, therefore, to accept my heartfelt gratitude for the letters as well as for the confidence you were pleased to repose in me. Your Grace, however, may depend upon it, that neither shall be abused on my part.

I came here a few days ago from Leghorn, in a French steamer. I made the passage in three days and a night, during which period I experienced both the perils and enjoyments of the sea. I find the following memorandums in my "Evening Notes." Respecting the first day I appear to have written thus: "Not long after the steamer left Leghorn harbour, I experienced what the Psalmist so beautifully and graphically described in Ps. CVII. 23— 28. The Lord 'commanded and raised the stormy wind, which lifted up the waves of the sea; they mounted up to heaven, they went down again to the depths, our souls melted because of trouble; we did reel to and fro, and staggered like drunken men, and were at our wits' end.' Just an hour before the storm arose, the whole crew seemed happy and cheerful, apparently smiling in gratitude for the goodness of a benign Creator, the children frolicked joyously on deck; when on a sudden the billows in their strength dashed furiously over our bark, and the shrieks of an affrighted crew rivalled the noise of the mighty

waters. If altogether ignorant of the mysterious ways of God, I should have been tempted to conclude with the unfaithful servant, that the Almighty was an austere Master, but I am thankful that I know that

'God moves in a mysterious way,

His wonders to perform;

He plants his footsteps in the sea,
And rides upon the storm.
Deep in unfathomable mines
Of never-failing skill,

He treasures up his bright designs,

And works his sovereign will.'

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There were many on board, who, regardless of their Omnipotent Benefactor, enjoyed His gracious favours without a word of acknowledgment that those favours were vouchsafed by a Father of mercies and God of love. This I knew I watched, therefore, several passengers, though far from well myself, and I soon heard them cry unto the Lord in their trouble.' The sea grew more and more tempestuous, and raged most furiously the remainder of yesterday and the whole of last night, so that almost all on board were nearly sick unto death. But thanks be to the Captain of our salvation, who brought us out this morning from our distress. He made the sea calm, so that the waves thereof are still; and all on board seem grateful to their mighty Deliverer. This circumstance furnished a deeply-interesting subject for conversation amongst all the passengers."

As regards my last day at sea, I find the following entry in my "Evening Notes." "The whole of this day we enjoyed very much. It was the most lovely day we had whilst at sea. I watched, this morning, the

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