rendered smaller by the Bimah, or reading-desk. This piece of furniture occupies a square of considerable extent in the centre, so that for the congregation at large there remain rather narrow avenues, formed by the inner walls of the synagogue, and the exteriors of the reading-desks. Besides the reading-desks, there are two large arks, where the rolls of the Pentateuch are kept, which contribute towards diminishing the remaining little room. There is, however, an antechamber attached to it, which supplies much of the deficient space. The part of the synagogue allotted to the Jewesses, is of course distinct from that of the Jews. The former assemble in an adjacent room, so that they are able to hear what is going on among the assemblage of the former. As soon as I entered the synagogue, I was curiously and rather quizzically looked upon by several Jews-some in Turkish, and others in Polish costume-whom I found there. In order to transfer their piercing eyes from myself, I began to read some of the Hebrew inscriptions which decorate the walls of the "little sanctuary," and obtruded a few remarks on the different pieces of furniture in the small edifice. Several of the inmates exclaimed: "Then you are a (Bar Israel) ?—then you are a T (Yehoodee) ?” *

בר ישראל

It would appear from these remarks, that they took me at first for a "or Gentile. They seemed to be very inquisitive about the time of my arrival at Malta, as to where my residence was, &c. I answered all their queries. Then came a puzzling question: "Then why have we not seen you here either on Saturday or on the Day of Atonement ?" You know, dearest Miriam, my principle is never to mince matters, but as far as in me lay to be

* "Then you are a son of Israel, then you are a Jew!"—the pass-word amongst our people.

straightforward both in word and in deed, and therefore gave them an answer accordingly : "On Saturday, I was very tired after my voyage, and could scarcely go anywhere. On Sunday last I had to officiate in St. Paul's Church, both morning and evening, so that the whole of that day was spent in the service of our Redeemer, whose name is the Holy One of Israel! Yesterday, your Day of Atonement, I was here twice; but the door being shut, and not wishing to knock for admittance, I was obliged to go away disappointed. Besides, even if I came, I could not conscientiously use all the prayers appointed, either for Saturday or for the Day of Atonement, in the synagogue service. There are but few which I could fervently and loudly echo." I pointed out the prayers which I thought a Christian might join in, and also those in which I could not. I called their attention to a short but beautiful prayer, which was used yesterday, and which decides that the compilers of the Jewish Liturgy, or at least the author of that prayer, understood that the Messiah, and not the nation of Israel, was the object of Isaiah LIII. I turned to a venerable aged Polish Jew, and asked permission to refer to his book, which he readily granted,* out of which I read the following short confession and prayer:

פנה מנו משיח צדקנו: פלצנו ואין מי לצדקנו: עונותינו ועול פשעינו: עומס והוא מחולל מפשעינו: סובל על שכם חטאתינו: סליחה מצוא לעונותינו:

נרפא לנו בחבורתו:*

*The Spanish Jews have omitted the prayer alluded to. ↑ Messiah, our righteousness has departed from us, Horror has seized us, and we have none to justify us.

My auditors first fixed their eyes steadfastly upon me, and then transferred them to each other, and at last each read in turn the prayer I had just recited, and actually said nothing. I then simply observed, whilst looking at the aged Polish Israelite: "It appears to me that you have been reading these prayers for nearly threescore and ten years, without knowing what you were about." Neither was any reply made to this remark. I felt it, therefore, best to wish them farewell, and let them discuss the subject amongst themselves. The above extract, my dear child, will give you an idea of the secret, which makes our nation so tenacious about modern Judaism: it is thoughtlessness. Now, God bless you, ever prays your very affectionate papa, &c. &c.

LETTER XVIII.

TO GEORGE CRAWFORD, ESQ.

My dear George,

Malta, October 1847.

You may well feel surprised at hearing that I am thus long here; to tell you the truth, I am downright tired of my obligatory sojourn. All was very comfortably arranged last week for my leaving this, but some stupid Captain

With our wickedness and misdeeds He was burdened,
And He was wounded for our transgressions;

Bearing on the shoulder our sins,

In order to find an atonement for our iniquities.
May we be healed by His wound.”

See also my "Exposition of Isaiah LIII." Lecture I.

arriving from Alexandria, and breaking through the quarantine regulations, caused the whole island to be placed under the plague ban, from which no exit is permitted for a whole fortnight. What consummate folly! I am sometimes inclined to indulge in Lord Byron's "Farewell to Malta," but always recollect myself in time, and adopt his Lordship's motto, of which the impetuous poet thought rather too late :

"I'll not offend with words uncivil,
And wish thee rudely at the

Music seems yet to hold fast your affections. I am sorry that I am not sufficiently expert either in the art or science of that enchanting accomplishment to be able to satisfy your strong wishes. I can, however, give you the information I got on the subject from Mr. Badger, who lived in this island for years; and to him you must "feel deeply indebted,” and not to me.

The Maltese are not very rich in native musical instruments; and in their choice seem to have preferred, with the inhabitants of Arabia, such as are more noisy, than, with the Arabs of Northern Africa, such as are more soft. Even these, however, are getting into disuse, and their place is being supplied by companies of blind fiddlers, who are found almost in every village, and whose performances, if exhibited within the hearing of a man acquainted with the science, would certainly put him in a position to serve as an exact counterpart of Hogarth's "Enraged Musician." The tambourine, a species of bag-pipe, the kettle-drum, a hollow tube about half a foot in diameter, with a distended skin over one surface, and a round stick tied to the centre of it, which is rubbed up and down with the hand, causing

VOL. I.

P

a most monotonous sound,* and several different shaped lyres, with from two to four strings, form the native band of the Maltese country people. Of the above, the bag-pipe, or zaqq, as it is called, merits the most attention, as it is most esteemed. This instrument is formed of an inflated dog-skin, which is held under the left arm, with the legs directed upwards, and having a mouth-piece, by which the skin is filled, and a flute or pipe, played with both hands, affixed to it. This instrument is generally accompanied by the tambourine, and a dancing company, who move their bodies in graceful evolutions, or ridiculous gestures, to the sound of the duet.

The Maltese have the peculiar talent for poetry which is natural to all those nations who speak the Arabic language. The taste for this kind of composition has very much degenerated in the cities, but in the country it is met with in its original purity of style and expression. Mr. Badger says: "I have often stood and listened to individuals seated upon two opposite trees, or engaged in some kind of labour, singing answers to each other in rhyme, without any previous meditation." This the natives call taqbeel. The subjects vary according to circumstances, sometimes partaking of the nature of epic poetry, and sometimes of satire upon the faults or character of each. The tunes set to these are in general somewhat wild, which is the prevailing character of Maltese music; but it is a wildness not devoid of romantic beauty and harmony. In this respect, few will fail to admire the singing of the natives, as they join in small companies, each taking a part, which they maintain throughout the whole performance

* This instrument is called by the natives rab bába or zuvzava.