Imatges de pàgina
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ENGRAVED BY J. W. COOK, FROM THE ORIGINAL DRAWING.

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When I asked: "What meaneth all this?" I was informed that it was in honour of my arrival. No sooner did that band leave than another struck up their instruments. I began to fear that I might be welcomed more than I liked; however, the professed rejoicing terminated with the second band.

After the little stir, my coming excited, settled down, I went to see the schools. I found them filled with intelligent looking children. Looking out through the window this evening, I was very much pleased with the appearance of the town, by moon and star-light. By reason of the white-washed terraces, it gave one an idea of a mountain covered with snow; for a moment I almost fancied I was in Russia.

Oct. 19th. Took a walk through the town with Mr. Davis. I need hardly note that everything appeared new to me, in spite of all my book knowledge about Tunis. I fancied I saw people and things which were as yet never described. The eye is, after all, the most impressive informant. The population presented to my view a most singular appearance, especially when I gazed upon them promiscuously. The four different sorts of turbans attracted my attention first: the white, worn by notaries; the green, worn by the lineal descendants of the False Prophet; the red, worn by the Hadjehs, or those who performed a pilgrimage to Mecca, whereby they render themselves holy (?); and the black, worn by the TunisianJews, the latter not being allowed to wear any other headdress. Poor Jews! though you are obliged to go in black, I like this colour, fit emblem of mourning. Behold, from what a pinnacle of glory you have been hurled down. Is there no cause then, on your part, for mourning? Alas there is great cause. Not only on 28 nуwn (Tishaah

B'aabh),* the Anniversary of the destruction of the Temple, ought ye to sit on the ground and lament, but daily, aye hourly. "How doth the city sit solitary, that was full of people! How is she become as a widow! She that was great among the nations, and princess among provinces, how is she become tributary!" should ring in your ears from morning till night. More loudly, however, should echo in your synagogues the last words of your Messiah in that temple, the destruction of which ye annually bewail: "O, Jerusalem, Jerusalem, thou that killest the prophets, and stonest them which are sent unto thee, how often would I have gathered thy children together, even even as a hen gathereth her chickens under her wings, and ye would not. Behold your house is left unto you desolate. For I say unto you, ye shall not see me henceforth, till ye shall say, Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord." Yes mourning, lamentation and woe is Israel's present portion. Would that you were conscious of the heinous crime which brought all this evil upon you, even the crucifying of the Lord of Glory; Oh, for the time predicted by the prophets, when your mourning shall be turned into everlasting joy.

Such reflections occupied my mind until we arrived at the sookh, or shop-quarter, when my thoughts took a different turn. This district of the town fascinated me not a little. It consists of oblong arched squares, each square is divided into small shops, which are occupied by the respective proprietors. The principal shop-keepers are Jews and Moors: the latter furnish their little shops very comfortably, some stretch themselves on the divans reading

* The ninth day of the month Ab.

some book; others sit cross-legged, writing or copying some book-generally the Koran. I scarcely passed a

single Moorish sookh, without seeing its owner engaged in Business is at a very low ebb at

some literary pursuit. present in this regency. Passing through this quarter I almost fancied myself in a college. If the little drawers which contain the paltry merchandize were removed, I might have been disposed to take it for granted-if I had not been previously told-that that quarter was a sort of spacious seminary. The Jewish shops are by far more business-like looking, and better-furnished-as far as mercantile is concerned-than the Moorish stalls. The Israelites keep also many books for reading in their shops, and I observed not a few poring over some large folios. One part of the sookh-district is occupied by the Maltese, and is a very bustling neighbourhood. Neither book nor reading is to be seen amongst that tribe. Avarice and coveteousness are the strong features of that place. in that quarter did not captivate me. are a low set of fellows, something like the Irish in London and Liverpool.

The shop-keepers The Maltese here

Oct. 20th. A Rabbi from Hungary called upon us about one o'clock, P.M., rather an intelligent man. We had a long and interesting discussion about the standard of correct scriptural interpretation. We endeavoured to demonstrate to this "Master in Israel," that neither the Romish nor the Talmudical doctors have a standard of interpretation-but that Protestants had, which was the New Testament. This gave a most interesting feature to the discussion- and we have reason to believe, not without impression on our Jewish antagonist; as he could not help but see and feel that all the ramparts in which he entrenched himself as the writings of Rabbi Isaac,

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