CHAPTER IX.

Park's Second Journey.

Views under which he was sent out-Departure-Overtaken by the rainy Season-Great Sickness and Distress-Embarks on the Niger-Negotiations with the King of BambarraObtains Permission to build a Vessel-Sansanding-Sets sail -Accounts of his Death.

THE discoveries of Park in his first journey, though the most splendid made by any modern traveller, rather excited than satisfied the national curiosity. The Niger had been seen flowing eastward into the interior of Africa; and hence a still deeper interest and mystery were suspended over the future course and termination of that great central stream. Kingdoms had been discovered, more flourishing and more populous than any formerly known in that continent; but other kingdoms, still greater and wealthier, were reported to exist in regions which he had vainly attempted to reach. The lustre of his achievements had diffused among the public in general an ardour for discovery, which was formerly confined to a few enlightened individuals. It was evident, however, that the efforts of no private association could penetrate the depths of the African continent, and overcome the obstacle presented by its distance, its deserts, and its barbarism. Hence, George III., the patron and employer of the celebrated Cook, was induced to come forward again as the promoter of discovery in this new sphere; and accordingly, in October 1801, Mr Park was invited by government to undertake an expedition on a larger scale. Having in the mean time mar

ried the daughter of Mr Anderson, with whom he had served his apprenticeship as a surgeon, and having entered with some success on the practice of his profession in the town of Peebles, it was supposed that, content with laurels so dearly earned, he had renounced a life of peril and adventure. But none of these ties could detain him, when the invitation was given to renew and complete his splendid career, on which, indeed, his mind had been brooding with enthusiastic ardour. He had held much intercourse with Mr Maxwell, a gentleman who had long commanded a vessel in the African trade, by whom he was persuaded that the Congo, which, since its discovery by the Portuguese, had been almost lost sight of by Europeans, would prove to be the channel by which the Niger, after watering all the regions of Interior Africa. enters the Atlantic. The scientific world were very much disposed to adopt the same views on this subject; and, accordingly, the whole plan of the expedition was adjusted with an avowed reference to them. But the agitation of the public mind, by the change of ministry and the war with France, delayed farther proceedings till 1804, when he was desired by Lord Camden, the colonial secretary, to form his arrangements, with an assurance of being supplied with every means necessary for their accomplishment. The course which he now suggested, as the result of his dearly-bought experience, was, that he should no longer travel as a single and unprotected wanderer. He proposed to take with him a small party, who, being well armed and disciplined, might face almost any force which the natives could oppose to them; with these he meant to proceed direct to Sego; where he intended to build two boats 40 feet long, and thence to sail downwards to the estuary of the Congo. Instructions were accordingly sent out to Goree, that he should be furnished liberally with men and every thing else of which he might stand in need.

Mr Park sailed from Portsmouth in the Crescent transport on the 30th January 1805. About the 8th March he arrived at the Cape Verd Islands; and on the

28th reached Goree. There he was joined by an officer and thirty-five soldiers, and he provided himself with asses from the Islands, where the breed of these animals is excellent, and which appeared well fitted for traversing the rugged hills of the high country whence issue the infant streams of the Senegal and Niger. He took with him also two sailors and four artificers, who had been sent from England. But before all these measures could be completed a month had elapsed, and it was then evident that the rainy season could not be far distant,a period in which travelling is very difficult and trying to European constitutions. It is manifest, therefore, that he ought to have remained at Goree or Pisania till that sickly period had passed; but, in his enthusiastic state of mind, it would have been extremely painful to linger so long on the eve of his grand and favourite undertaking. He hoped, and it seemed possible, that before the middle of June, when the rains usually begin, he might reach the Niger, which could then be navigated without any serious toil or exposure. He departed, therefore, with his little band on the fourth day of May, and proceeded through Medina, along the banks of the Gambia. With so strong a party, he was no longer dependent on the protection of the petty kings and mansas; but the natives, seeing him so well provided, thought he had now no claim on their hospitality; on the contrary, they eagerly seized every opportunity to obtain some of the valuable articles which they saw in his possession. Thefts were frequent; the kings drove a hard bargain for presents; and at one place the women, with immense labour, had emptied all the wells, that they might derive an advantage from selling the water. Submitting quietly to these little annoyances, Mr Park proceeded along the Gambia, till he saw it flowing from the south between the hills of Foota Jallo and a high mountain called Muianta. Turning his face almost due west, he passed the streams of the Ba Lee, the Ba Fing, and the Ba Woollima, the three principal tributaries of the Senegal. This change of direction led him through

a tract much more pleasing than that passed in his dreary return through Jallonka and its wilderness. The villages, built in delightful mountain-glens and looking from their elevated precipices over a great extent of wooded plain, appeared romantic beyond any thing he had ever seen. The rocks near Sullo assumed every possible diversity of form, towering like ruined castles,spires, and pyramids. One mass of granite so strongly resembled the remains of a Gothic abbey, with its niches and ruined staircase, that it required some time to satisfy him of its being wholly the work of nature. The crossing of the rivers, now considerably swelled, was attended with many difficulties; and in one of them Isaaco the guide was nearly devoured by a crocodile.

It was near Satadoo, soon after passing the Faleme, that the party experienced the first tornado, which, marking the commencement of the rainy season, proved for them "the beginning of sorrows." On such occasions, violent storms of thunder and lightning are followed by deluges of rain, which cover the ground three feet deep, and have a peculiarly malignant influence on the European frame. In three days twelve men were on the sick-list; and the natives, as they saw the strength of the expedition decline, became more bold and frequent in their predatory attacks. At Gimbia, accordingly, attempts were made to overpower, by main force, the whole party, and seize all they possessed; but by merely presenting their muskets, the assault was repelled without bloodshed. At Maniakorra the whole population hung on their rear for a considerable time, headed by thirty of the king's sons; and great delicacy was felt as to the mode of dealing with these august thieves, so long as their proceedings were not quite intolerable. One of them came up and engaged Mr Park in conversation, while another ran off with his fowling-piece; and, on his attempting pursuit, the first took the opportunity of seizing his great-coat. Orders were now given to fire on all depredators, royal or plebeian; and after a few shots had been discharged, without producing any fatal effects, the thieves concealed

themselves among the rocks, and were merely seen peeping through the crevices.

The expedition continued to melt away beneath the deadly influence of an African climate. Every day added to the list of sick or dead, or of those who declared themselves unable to proceed. Near Bangassi, four men lay down at once; it was even with difficulty that Mr Park dragged forward his brother-in-law Mr Anderson, while he himself felt very sick and faint. His spirits were about to sink entirely, when, coming to an eminence, he obtained a distant view of the mountains, the southern base of which he knew to be watered by the Niger. Then indeed he forgot his fever, and thought only of climbing the blue hills which delighted his eyes.

But before he could arrive at that desired point, three weeks elapsed, during which he experienced the greatest difficulty and suffering. At length he reached the summit of the ridge which divides the Senegal from the Joliba, and coming to the brow of the hill, saw again this majestic river rolling its immense stream along the plain. Yet his situation and prospects were gloomy indeed, when compared to those with which he had left the banks of the Gambia. Of thirty-eight men whom he then had with him, there survived only seven, all suffering from severe sickness, and some nearly at the last extremity. Still his mind was full of the most sanguine hope, espe cially when, on the 22d August, he felt himself floating on the waters of his favourite stream, and advancing towards the ultimate object of his ambition. He hired canoes to convey his party to Marraboo; and the river, here a mile in breadth, was so full and so deep, that its current carried him easily over the rapids, but with a velocity which was in a certain degree painful.

From the place just named he sent the interpreter Isaaco to Mansong, with part of the presents, to treat with that monarch for protection, as well as for permission to build a boat. This envoy was absent several days, during which, great anxiety was felt, heightened by several unfavourable rumours, among which was, that