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Last look all took at the burning ships
Nought save, in hollow of a hill,
A bed of lichened stones,
And flecked with pine-tree cones
Grope among dead men's bones.
Yet, sometimes, some stray thinkers
Take boat, and downwards glance Right glad am I the tale to tell
Where, blue as Mediterranean, That, ere the month was free,
“ The Basin's " waters dance, You reached where flag of Port Royale
And see the ribs of D’Anville's fleet, Flamed o'er the western sea.
The Armada of France. *
God sain thy soul, O duc d'Anville !
* Some license must be allowed to the ballad. May clement Heaven benignant be
maker. Ramsay did not personally conduct the reTo all ye Frenchmen brave,
mains of the expedition, but met it at Annapolis. Though nought now shows your resting and the scene of the teet's anchorage was Bedford
Chebucto, it is scarcely necessary to say, is Halifax, place
Basin, the upper part of Halifax harbour.-H. D. No cairn to mark your grave,
FROM LONDON TO AUSTRALIA AND BACK.
BY J. B. MACKENZIE, TORONTO.
THE VOYAGE OUT, VIA THE CAPE OF GOOD man, quite an ordinary mortal in himself, HOPE.
but having the honour of a remote connec
tion with the late Dr. Arnold, of Rugby, E left Gravesend on Thursday, the and who bore the same name as that emi
6th of May, A. D. 1875, by Messrs. nent man and model disciplinarian. Green's ship the Lord Warden.
We had unfavourable winds for the first consisted of the usual number of officers and few days until the Isle of Wight was reached, twenty-four seamen, and we had also eight when the services of the pilot and tugmidshipmen who had paid a large premium boat were dispensed with, and fair, pleasant for the privilege of studying the rudiments weather was encountered until the Island of of navigation which a first voyage afforded. Madeira was sighted on the eighteenth day The captain, unlike the major portion of his out. When the pilot left it seemed as if the profession, was very religiously inclined, last tie binding us to England were loosened, and made many efforts to bring both pas- and those who purposed making Australia sengers and seamen to a proper knowledge their adopted home, and who might, in all of serious affairs. There were two amongst human probability, never have an opportuthe passengers who might have been called nity of revisiting their native shores, found it distinguished personages, the one being the a matter of some difficulty to suppress their recently consecrated Anglican Bishop of not unnatural emotion. Ballarat, who was proceeding to the scene The first incident of the voyage was the of his labours, and was remarkable for the apparition of a half-dead stowaway from the possession of fine talents and an amiable hold. The unfortunate man had been undisposition ; and the other a young gentle successful in procuring employment at home, and being desirous of trying his fortune in all the hardships which attended the initiathe Colonies-as the Australian group is tory portion of the trip. One of the stewstill called by Englishmen, Canada being ards falling sick shortly after leaving port, looked upon as a much more independent he was installed in the vacant position, and possession—had endeavoured by every pos- revelled in fresh meat and other delicacies sible means to find his way out in an open utterly unknown to many of those who had and honest manner, but, having failed in prepaid their passage. this, had in desperation conceived the idea I do not wonder at the Island of Madeira of stowing himself away in the hold of our being a favourite resort for invalids, as the vessel—an expedient which is, I believe, climate is incomparable, and the sky during frequently resorted to by persons in a simi- the whole year uniformly clear and bright. lar strait. He dared not appear on deck The Queen's birthday was observed on until he had heard the anchor-chain hauled board our vessel with becoming loyalty, down (this being the signal that the pilot there being a fine pyrotechnic display in had gone, and that the ship was left to her or the evening. dinary resources), fearing that he would have The equator was crossed on the thirtyto return in that official's boat. The pilot's fourth day out, and some of the passengers leave-taking having been delayed beyond dreaded that the old custom of being shaved the usual time, owing to adverse wind and at the hands of Father Neptune would be weather, a confinement of nearly ten days brought into operation. Three of the midwas imposed upon him. On the morning shipmen were compelled to submit to this of the tenth day he presented himself to the ridiculous custom, but I understood from sympathizing gaze of the passengers, (for the sailors that the after enjoyment of being sympathy was the ruling sentiment, although lowered into the water was in their case it was perfectly well understood by all that not experienced. I believe that, so far as his conduct was open to grave reprehen- passengers are concerned, this ancient idea sion), but was not able to give a very con- of shaving has been entirely abandoned, nected account of the sufferings which he and only those unfortunate middies who must, necessarily, have endured during his cross the line for the first time meet with prolonged banishment from the outside this unpleasant treatment from the venerable world, as the want of food and other priva- sea-god. Considerable consternation was tions had induced great mental and physi- occasioned amongst those who had never cal weakness. After having partially reco- made the voyage before when the first squall vered, he said he had entered the ship pro- was met with, but the ability of the ship to vided with food sufficient to sustain life for withstand the shock was not questioned for a period certainly not exceeding two or three a moment. It is rather an exciting thing days, having only the pockets of his coat in to see the sky all at once assume an intense which to conceal the necessary nourishment. blackness, and the sea become suddenly As the extent of his wardrobe was limited to and violently ruffled, and to watch the vessel the clothing in which he made his first ap- at the moment the wind strikes her. Many pearance, the question suggested itself to of the passengers were suddenly, and doubtmany whether a man, undertaking a voyage less much against their will, transferred with the duration of which is seldom less than exceeding violence from the windward to ninety days, would enjoy uninterrupted hap- the leeward side of the ship, but no case of piness without a single change of apparel. serious injury was recorded. The captain was at first naturally annoyed at The appearance of the sky in the tropics this bold venture, and threatened to reship is generally lovely, and a tropical sunset is him on the first homeward bound vessel. This indescribably beautiful. The heavens asthreat was not, however, carried out, and sume all the tints of the rainbow, and I am disposed to think that if every poor the sun sinks from view in a perfect stowaway fell upon as good times as the one cradle of loveliness and grandeur. The in question, many more would be glad to heat in the tropics is, at times, so intense endure the temporary, though distressing, as to cause the tar on the decks to boil ; inconvenience which an enforced and ex- and during the warm weather there was one tended residence in the hold entails. His great advantage which the second class subsequent condition fully compensated for passengers enjoyed. This was the option of relieving themselves of their shoes and strictly to their own department. Great restockings, and parading the decks in their lief was expressed in every countenance bare feet. The first-class passengers looked when the last of these animals was sacriwith envious eyes upon the comfort which ficed to appease the appetites of the firstthe removal of these articles occasioned to class passengers. these fortunate beings, and they deeply re- The sailors do not care to see first-class gretted that the higher state of society in passengers on the forecastle, which they which a first-class passenger is supposed to claim as their exclusive property, and when move, prohibited them from following this one of them appeared there one evening, comfortable practice. Coats and vests were, shortly after leaving Gravesend, and seemed likewise, deemed unnecessary, but it was to be peering anxiously into the darkness, found expedient by those who had discarded he was facetiously asked by one of the seashoes and stockings to exercise great caution men if he saw signs of Melbourne, and not in moving about, whilst the tar was undergo- being able to return a satisfactory answer, he ing the process of boiling. When rain came retired a vanquished man, and was not again it was a great enjoyment to exposeourselves to seen on this sacred quarter of the vessel. its influence for half an hour ata time. Noone Much amusement was found in fishing for can form an idea of the refreshing effect of sharks, and many of these ferocious creatures this to those who have endured the heat of were caught and hauled on board. The a tropical sun for a week or more. Being largest of them was about seven feet long, stationed under the bow of the vessel, and and nearly an hour was taken up in dispatchhaving the water pumped upon you from ing him. I never saw a fish so tenacious above, was also found very enjoyable in the of life as the shark is, and those who had evenings, and this practice was generally undertaken the operation of killing them followed during the warm weather.
were heartily tired of their task long beThe second-class passengers had to prepare fore it was finished. I secured a tooth as their own meals, and many startling novelties a curiosity, and the appearance of it disin the shape of pies and puddings were said pelled any doubt I might have entertained, to have been the result of their labours. as to the animal's ability to snap a man's There were many occasions on which it was leg off. It is necessary to keep very shy of found quite unnecessary to add salt to the their tails, as much damage is often caused soup, the rolling of the vessel doing the by this powerful member, which is brought needful in this respect, and providing at into full play the moment they are landtimes more of this condiment in a fluid state ed on deck. A great number of small than was relished. One pot of meat was pilot fish were found alive inside the sharks allowed to each passenger weekly, but in after they had been despatched. It is said tropical latitudes it became unfit to eat after that sharks swallow these fish entire and the second day, and it may be conceived without allowing their teeth to press upon that the living then was not of the most them in any way, and some have gone so luxurious description. Plenty of rice was far as to declare that the movement of the given, but one is apt to tire of this wholesome shark's fins is directed by them, and that article after having consumed almost nothing the name pilot fish is given to them by reason else for ninety days. The forecastle was a of this peculiarity.
The sharks certainly favourite resort of many of the passengers ; allow them to remain with them or leave but one great objection to this portion of the them at their own good pleasure. I do not ship was the close proximity of the pigs, vouch for the correctness of the statement which kept up a constant and wonderfully as to the fins, but there could be no doubt audible grunting during the whole of the that the pilot fish when discovered were passage. They would occasionally escape quite unharmed, and they were allowed to from their prison and ramble around the return to their own element. deck, and it was very amusing to see the The monotony of the evenings was reheroic efforts that were made to recapture lieved by occasional concerts, which were not them. A pig is decidedly out of place roam-successful as exhibitions of talent, there ing about a sailing vessel, and these would being only two or three provided with the have escaped a considerable amount of suf necessary qualifications to make the enterfering and bad treatment, had they kept tainment enjoyable. Divine service was held every Sunday, morning and evening. own, and taking complete possession of it The newly appointed Bishop of Ballarat, the until her bewilderment had subsided, and Rev. Dr. Thornton, read the services in the much to the astonishment of the proprietor. saloon, and the captain, being, as has been The meridian of the Cape of Good Hope already indicated, of a serious turn of mind, was passed on the sixty-fourth day out, the devoted his energies to the spiritual welfare sea being calm and the weather unlike that of the second and third-class passengers. usually experienced in this locality. On the There was one lady passenger, a maiden on following day, however, there was a comthe shady side of forty, who persisted in plete change, and strong and for the most making advances to the fourth mate, an part favourable winds were met with until official of very gentlemanly exterior, and our destination was reached. About this possessed of many good qualities, and one time we had one very stormy night, during of whose duties it was to see that all lights which three of the sails were completely were extinguished at half past ten.
The carried away,
but no other damage of any lady took the opportunity every evening of consequence was sustained. The weather declaring her unwavering affection for the on Dominion Day was very cold, and whilst officer, and as everything that was said on the people of Canada were probably vainly both sides was expressed in an audible tone endeavouring to keep themselves cool, I was of voice, much amusement was occasioned glad to make use of all the mufflings I could amongst those who were spectators of the lay my hands upon. The Southern Cross affair.
was seen nearly every evening, and our proThe cabins were not made use of to any gress was well tested by the relative posigreat extent whilst in the tropics, and we all tion of this striking constellation. A homevied with one another in trying to discover ward-bound vessel was passed soon after the coolest and most airy spot where we crossing the line, and a host of letters were might spend the night. Some made use of sent by her. The run from the Cape of the bare benches, and others placed their Good Hope to Melbourne was made in mattrasses on the table and slept in this twenty-nine days, the distance being about elevated position. Some reckless passengers five thousand six hundred miles. The tried their luck on the deck, but were heard highest run during the voyage was two to express great regret at their hasty conduct hundred and ninety-four miles, and the the following morning, as the existence of lowest eighteen miles. This is, of course, rheumatic pains, induced by the heavy dew not taking into account the days on which which was falling, rendered their lives for we were becalmed, and on which retrograde some time afterwards wretched and unen- movements were sometimes made. The viable. My favourite retreat during the distance from Gravesend to Melbourne, acday was the steps of the poop, but my cording to log, was fourteen thousand five fondness for that particular part of the ship hundred miles, and the time taken in trawas greatly diminished one evening, by an versing it ninety-one days. I believe that immense wave dashing over the vessel and the shortest time in which a voyage from enveloping me from head to foot. Many London to Melbourne has been accomplished others met with disasters similar to mine, by a sailing vessel is sixty-eight days, and none of which were attended with serious there is only one record of this time having consequences, but were rather causes of been made. The average duration of the amusement than distress. One of the voyage is between eighty and ninety days, sailors risked his life one evening in en- and anything beyond the latter figure is deavouring to get possession of a bird which deemed a long passage. Our vessel made had alighted on the highest portion of the very good speed when a really strong wind mainmast, and he was greeted with loud and was with her, but her movements during a prolonged cheering when it was seen that moderate breeze were not remarkable for his daring venture had been crowned with their celerity.
The rolling of the vessel gave rise to many ludicrous accidents, the most amus
IMPRESSIONS OF AUSTRALIA ing of which was that of a lady, suddenly and involuntarily leaving the dinner table, The colony of Victoria, as viewed from and sitting down in front of a cabin, not her the sea, does not present a pleasing pros