Nought save, in hollow of a hill, A bed of lichened stones,

Last look all took at the burning ships

Lit

up in fitful glow,

THE VOYAGE OUT, VIA THE CAPE OF GOOD

HOPE.

E left Gravesend on Thursday, the

WE 6th of May, A. D. 1875, by Messrs.

Green's ship the Lord Warden. The crew consisted of the usual number of officers and twenty-four seamen, and we had also eight midshipmen who had paid a large premium for the privilege of studying the rudiments of navigation which a first voyage afforded. The captain, unlike the major portion of his profession, was very religiously inclined, and made many efforts to bring both passengers and seamen to a proper knowledge of serious affairs. There were two amongst the passengers who might have been called distinguished personages, the one being the recently consecrated Anglican Bishop of Ballarat, who was proceeding to the scene of his labours, and was remarkable for the possession of fine talents and an amiable disposition; and the other a young gentle

man, quite an ordinary mortal in himself, but having the honour of a remote connection with the late Dr. Arnold, of Rugby, and who bore the same name as that eminent man and model disciplinarian.

We had unfavourable winds for the first few days until the Isle of Wight was reached, when the services of the pilot and tugboat were dispensed with, and fair, pleasant weather was encountered until the Island of Madeira was sighted on the eighteenth day out. When the pilot left it seemed as if the last tie binding us to England were loosened, and those who purposed making Australia their adopted home, and who might, in all human probability, never have an opportunity of revisiting their native shores, found it a matter of some difficulty to suppress their not unnatural emotion.

The first incident of the voyage was the apparition of a half-dead stowaway from the hold. The unfortunate man had been unsuccessful in procuring employment at home,

and being desirous of trying his fortune in the Colonies-as the Australian group is still called by Englishmen, Canada being looked upon as a much more independent possession-had endeavoured by every possible means to find his way out in an open and honest manner, but, having failed in this, had in desperation conceived the idea of stowing himself away in the hold of our vessel-an expedient which is, I believe, frequently resorted to by persons in a similar strait. He dared not appear on deck until he had heard the anchor-chain hauled down (this being the signal that the pilot had gone, and that the ship was left to her ordinary resources), fearing that he would have to return in that official's boat. The pilot's leave-taking having been delayed beyond the usual time, owing to adverse wind and weather, a confinement of nearly ten days was imposed upon him. On the morning of the tenth day he presented himself to the sympathizing gaze of the passengers, (for sympathy was the ruling sentiment, although it was perfectly well understood by all that his conduct was open to grave reprehension), but was not able to give a very connected account of the sufferings which he must, necessarily, have endured during his prolonged banishment from the outside world, as the want of food and other privations had induced great mental and physical weakness. After having partially recovered, he said he had entered the ship provided with food sufficient to sustain life for a period certainly not exceeding two or three days, having only the pockets of his coat in which to conceal the necessary nourishment. As the extent of his wardrobe was limited to the clothing in which he made his first appearance, the question suggested itself to many whether a man, undertaking a voyage the duration of which is seldom less than ninety days, would enjoy uninterrupted happiness without a single change of apparel. The captain was at first naturally annoyed at this bold venture, and threatened to reship him on the first homeward bound vessel. This threat was not, however, carried out, and I am disposed to think that if every poor stowaway fell upon as good times as the one in question, many more would be glad to endure the temporary, though distressing, inconvenience which an enforced and extended residence in the hold entails. His subsequent condition fully compensated for

all the hardships which attended the initiatory portion of the trip. One of the stewards falling sick shortly after leaving port, he was installed in the vacant position, and revelled in fresh meat and other delicacies utterly unknown to many of those who had prepaid their passage.

I do not wonder at the Island of Madeira being a favourite resort for invalids, as the climate is incomparable, and the sky during the whole year uniformly clear and bright. The Queen's birthday was observed on board our vessel with becoming loyalty, there being a fine pyrotechnic display in the evening.

The equator was crossed on the thirtyfourth day out, and some of the passengers dreaded that the old custom of being shaved at the hands of Father Neptune would be brought into operation. Three of the midshipmen were compelled to submit to this ridiculous custom, but I understood from the sailors that the after enjoyment of being lowered into the water was in their case not experienced. I believe that, so far as passengers are concerned, this ancient idea of shaving has been entirely abandoned, and only those unfortunate middies who cross the line for the first time meet with this unpleasant treatment from the venerable sea-god. Considerable consternation was occasioned amongst those who had never made the voyage before when the first squall was met with, but the ability of the ship to withstand the shock was not questioned for a moment. It is rather an exciting thing to see the sky all at once assume an intense blackness, and the sea become suddenly and violently ruffled, and to watch the vessel at the moment the wind strikes her. Many of the passengers were suddenly, and doubtless much against their will, transferred with exceeding violence from the windward to the leeward side of the ship, but no case of serious injury was recorded.

The appearance of the sky in the tropics is generally lovely, and a tropical sunset is indescribably beautiful. The heavens assume all the tints of the rainbow, and the sun sinks from view in a perfect cradle of loveliness and grandeur. The heat in the tropics is, at times, so intense as to cause the tar on the decks to boil; and during the warm weather there was one great advantage which the second class passengers enjoyed. This was the option

of relieving themselves of their shoes and stockings, and parading the decks in their bare feet. The first-class passengers looked with envious eyes upon the comfort which the removal of these articles occasioned to these fortunate beings, and they deeply regretted that the higher state of society in which a first-class passenger is supposed to move, prohibited them from following this comfortable practice. Coats and vests were, likewise, deemed unnecessary, but it was found expedient by those who had discarded shoes and stockings to exercise great caution in moving about, whilst the tar was undergoing the process of boiling. When rain came it was a great enjoyment to expose ourselves to its influence for half an hour at a time. No one can form an idea of the refreshing effect of this to those who have endured the heat of a tropical sun for a week or more. Being stationed under the bow of the vessel, and having the water pumped upon you from above, was also found very enjoyable in the evenings, and this practice was generally followed during the warm weather.

The second-class passengers had to prepare their own meals, and many startling novelties in the shape of pies and puddings were said to have been the result of their labours. There were many occasions on which it was found quite unnecessary to add salt to the soup, the rolling of the vessel doing the needful in this respect, and providing at times more of this condiment in a fluid state than was relished. One pot of meat was allowed to each passenger weekly, but in tropical latitudes it became unfit to eat after the second day, and it may be conceived that the living then was not of the most luxurious description. Plenty of rice was given, but one is apt to tire of this wholesome article after having consumed almost nothing else for ninety days. The forecastle was a favourite resort of many of the passengers; but one great objection to this portion of the ship was the close proximity of the pigs, which kept up a constant and wonderfully audible grunting during the whole of the passage. They would occasionally escape from their prison and ramble around the deck, and it was very amusing to see the heroic efforts that were made to recapture them. A pig is decidedly out of place roaming about a sailing vessel, and these would have escaped a considerable amount of suffering and bad treatment, had they kept

strictly to their own department. Great relief was expressed in every countenance when the last of these animals was sacrificed to appease the appetites of the firstclass passengers.

The sailors do not care to see first-class passengers on the forecastle, which they claim as their exclusive property, and when one of them appeared there one evening, shortly after leaving Gravesend, and seemed to be peering anxiously into the darkness, he was facetiously asked by one of the seamen if he saw signs of Melbourne, and not being able to return a satisfactory answer, he retired a vanquished man, and was not again seen on this sacred quarter of the vessel. Much amusement was found in fishing for sharks, and many of these ferocious creatures were caught and hauled on board. The largest of them was about seven feet long, and nearly an hour was taken up in dispatching him. I never saw a fish so tenacious of life as the shark is, and those who had undertaken the operation of killing them were heartily tired of their task long before it was finished. I secured a tooth as a curiosity, and the appearance of it dispelled any doubt I might have entertained, as to the animal's ability to snap a man's leg off. It is necessary to keep very shy of their tails, as much damage is often caused by this powerful member, which is brought into full play the moment they are landed on deck. A great number of small pilot fish were found alive inside the sharks after they had been despatched. It is said that sharks swallow these fish entire and without allowing their teeth to press upon them in any way, and some have gone so far as to declare that the movement of the shark's fins is directed by them, and that the name pilot fish is given to them by reason of this peculiarity. The sharks certainly allow them to remain with them or leave them at their own good pleasure. I do not vouch for the correctness of the statement as to the fins, but there could be no doubt that the pilot fish when discovered were quite unharmed, and they were allowed to return to their own element.

The monotony of the evenings was relieved by occasional concerts, which were not successful as exhibitions of talent, there being only two or three provided with the necessary qualifications to make the entertainment enjoyable. Divine service was

held every Sunday, morning and evening. The newly appointed Bishop of Ballarat, the Rev. Dr. Thornton, read the services in the saloon, and the captain, being, as has been already indicated, of a serious turn of mind, devoted his energies to the spiritual welfare of the second and third-class passengers. There was one lady passenger, a maiden on the shady side of forty, who persisted in making advances to the fourth mate, an official of very gentlemanly exterior, and possessed of many good qualities, and one of whose duties it was to see that all lights were extinguished at half past ten. The lady took the opportunity every evening of declaring her unwavering affection for the officer, and as everything that was said on both sides was expressed in an audible tone of voice, much amusement was occasioned amongst those who were spectators of the affair.

The cabins were not made use of to any great extent whilst in the tropics, and we all vied with one another in trying to discover the coolest and most airy spot where we might spend the night. Some made use of the bare benches, and others placed their mattrasses on the table and slept in this elevated position. Some reckless passengers tried their luck on the deck, but were heard to express great regret at their hasty conduct the following morning, as the existence of rheumatic pains, induced by the heavy dew which was falling, rendered their lives for some time afterwards wretched and unenviable. My favourite retreat during the day was the steps of the poop, but my fondness for that particular part of the ship was greatly diminished one evening, by an immense wave dashing over the vessel and enveloping me from head to foot. Many others met with disasters similar to mine, none of which were attended with serious consequences, but were rather causes of amusement than distress. One of the sailors risked his life one evening in endeavouring to get possession of a bird which had alighted on the highest portion of the mainmast, and he was greeted with loud and prolonged cheering when it was seen that his daring venture had been crowned with success. The rolling of the vessel gave rise to many ludicrous accidents, the most amusing of which was that of a lady, suddenly and involuntarily leaving the dinner table, and sitting down in front of a cabin, not her

own, and taking complete possession of it until her bewilderment had subsided, and much to the astonishment of the proprietor.

The meridian of the Cape of Good Hope was passed on the sixty-fourth day out, the sea being calm and the weather unlike that usually experienced in this locality. On the following day, however, there was a complete change, and strong and for the most part favourable winds were met with until our destination was reached. About this time we had one very stormy night, during which three of the sails were completely carried away, but no other damage of any consequence was sustained. The weather on Dominion Day was very cold, and whilst the people of Canada were probably vainly endeavouring to keep themselves cool, I was glad to make use of all the mufflings I could lay my hands upon. The Southern Cross was seen nearly every evening, and our progress was well tested by the relative position of this striking constellation. A homeward-bound vessel was passed soon after crossing the line, and a host of letters were sent by her. The run from the Cape of Good Hope to Melbourne was made in twenty-nine days, the distance being about five thousand six hundred miles. The highest run during the voyage was two hundred and ninety-four miles, and the lowest eighteen miles. This is, of course, not taking into account the days on which we were becalmed, and on which retrograde movements were sometimes made. The distance from Gravesend to Melbourne, according to log, was fourteen thousand five hundred miles, and the time taken in traversing it ninety-one days. I believe that the shortest time in which a voyage from London to Melbourne has been accomplished by a sailing vessel is sixty-eight days, and there is only one record of this time having been made. The average duration of the voyage is between eighty and ninety days, and anything beyond the latter figure is deemed a long passage. Our vessel made very good speed when a really strong wind was with her, but her movements during a moderate breeze were not remarkable for their celerity.

IMPRESSIONS OF AUSTRALIA.

The colony of Victoria, as viewed from the sea, does not present a pleasing pros

pect. The country contiguous to the coastline is flat and uninteresting, and the character of the coast itself is very tame. There is nothing at all approaching to beauty or grandeur, and the observing traveller, who has been restricted for eighty or ninety days to the contemplation of water only, is seized with none of the rapturous emotion usually associated with the sight of land, but hails its appearance with little or no enthusiasm. Nor is this unvarying flatness confined to those districts bordering upon the shore, but it is also to be noted in the interior of the Province. When considering the general features of the country, one is forced to the conclusion that nature has but indifferently exercised that attribute of prodigality so often ascribed to her, but has, much to the detriment of her subject, shown a marked tendency towards parsimony. This is more particularly noticeable in the dearth of foliage, the illiberal supply of which is very reasonably regarded by the inhabitants as a great natural defect. It gives rise in many ways to much discomfort. During the summer months, when it is no uncommon thing for the thermometer to stand at, and even exceed, a hundred degrees in the shade,-this expression, when applied to Victoria and some other portions of Australia, would seem to be a misnomer, as there is no spot which can be justly designated shade, save the interior of one's dwelling, those who are desirous of recreation or exercise in the open air must be prepared to sacrifice every idea of comfort or enjoyment. In fact, at this period of the year, the unfortunate inhabitant, if he wishes to make life tolerable, must confine himself strictly and diligently to the protection afforded by his own roof.

One of the most unpleasant features of the climate is the prevalence of hot winds. The ungenerous distribution of trees is here again made painfully apparent, as any one exposed to the influence of these periodical visitations has but small means of refuge, and has to bear the unobstructed force of the attack. One of the most certain effects is a state of temporary blindness, and, if the dust be well raised, as is usually the case, the mouth and nostrils become unwilling receptacles of a plenteous supply of sand and other crude delicacies. Rain, when it does come, does not descend in any doubtful or hesitating manner, its force being simply

terrific. The writer has seen, not more than fifteen minutes after the beginning of a down-pour, horses immersed above their knees and struggling with difficulty to do the work they had on hand. The descent of the rain is also accompanied by a noise. resembling somewhat the discharge of a cannon, and no little consternation is created in the mind of one witnessing the phenomenon for the first time. Snow is well nigh unknown in the lowlands of Victoria, though occasionally seen on the Australian alps; but the void is amply filled by hail storms, which are of frequent occurrence, and are sources of damage both to life and property.

Melbourne, the capital of Victoria, although originally settled by the British, has much more the appearance of an American than an English city. The majority of the people, though ardently attached to, and having great reverence for, the mother land, are very republican in their tastes, and do not accept with grace any interference in their affairs. The most prominent public offices are held by Irishmen, and in the conferring of Imperial honours the Irish cannot complain of being overlooked. An instance may here be given of the extraordinary success which attends the movements of an enterprising man in this colony. Sir John O'Shaughnessy, who arrived in Melbourne with the traditional sixpence in his pocket, and embarked in the business of a butcher, after a few short years rose to eminence in the counsels of his country, and his services were duly and deservedly acknowledged at home by the conferring upon him of the order of knighthood. The present Prime Minister, Sir James McCulloch, also rose from an obscure position. These are only two of many instances where energy and enterprise have received ample recompense. Although the number of Chinamen in Melbourne and vicinity is not nearly so large as in San Francisco, they, nevertheless, form a considerable element in the population. They, however, keep very much to themselves, and the Europeans are not apt to raise any grievous complaint on their account. Their business is, for the most part, that of tea merchants, an occupation in which they, no doubt, find it profitable to engage. A great many of the men have intermarried with Europeans, and some have even accepted the truths of Christianity.